The royal family has put on spectacular festivities every Thursday night during November. They have invited  knights,  singers,  troubadours, magicians, dancers, soothsayers and court jesters and much more to entertain you, and to show you Jerusalem’s magic.

Your best access to the festivities is to enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate, and then wander through the Christian Quarter, particularly down to the Muristan Square. But keep your eyes and ears open for the entertainers are everywhere. This is truly a royal affair. All expenses for the entertainment has been paid for. You enjoy it all free of charge.

You may end up spending something, as some of the shop keepers will stay open late, as well as the eateries.

For more information: Jerusalem-Old City, Knights Festival

Entrance, obviously

When I first came to Israel in 1971, there were not many things happening in Jerusalem.

But one of the events that did take place was the Jerusalem International Book Fair. As avid readers we used to go there, browse among the thousands – no, sorry – tens of thousands of volumes in English, Hebrew, French, Spanish, and many other languages.

Angola and Romania

Two publishers in one corner

The Book Fair is for publishers to present their books, new or older publications, best sellers or less well known. They present books in almost all categories – literature, on art, crafts, professional topics, movies, history – local and worldwide and much much more.

It is also more friendly to the public, with reading areas and chairs for more comfortable browsing.

Every day there are some 25 events going on, such as

Panel Discussion on “The Digital Age – A new definition of publishing

Book presentations with the author

Dialogue between two authors – Israeli and visitor

Poetry Readings

Book Launches

Authors signing books

Special Exhibits

and much more

The Book Fair of course begins with the Opening Ceremony in the presence of Israeli leaders, especially the President of Israel. During the Opening the Jerusalem Prize is awarded. This year to the British writer, Ian McEwan.

Israel Radio Broadcasting

Even if you can’t make it there, you can still get some feel for what’s going on. A special corner was set up as a broadcasting station for Israel Radio. Interviews with writers, publishers and other involved in bringing all of this to us all.

It’s always great to see how many people still come browse for and buy books, especially in this age of electronic information. It is said that there are more readers per capita in Israel and that they read more books than anywhere else.

The Jerusalem International Book Fair takes place this time of the year every 2nd year in the Binyanei Ha”Omah Convention Center.

Opening hours usually is from 10 am to 10 pm on weekdays, and Friday to 1 pm.

If this is of interest, the best way to get further information is to google (as I did) Jerusalem International Book Fair.

Full photo coverage

It was found with a Jewish family in Amsterdam. It is not clear if the head of the family filmed it himself or assembled it from various pieces.
It was uploaded by Yaacov Gross presumably for Hebrew speaking audience.
I apologize to my English readers that all titles are in Hebrew, but I hope you will enjoy it anyway. I wish I knew how to add English
subtitles.

The film shows Jerusalem inside the walls – Temple Mount, The Western Wall or as it was known then – the Wailing Wall. You will see the Arab market and Damascus Gate, as well as street scenes from just inside Jaffa Gate. There are shots of the Tomb of David on Mt. Zion, of “David’s Well” – better known as the Gihon Spring today; of Rachel’s Tomb and the Tomb of Absalom in the Kidron Valley.
There are also a few shots of Jaffa Road, main street of Jerusalem outside the Walls, then and now.

The film is shows Jerusalem after the collapse of Ottoman (Turkish) rule. But before the British rule has really taken affect.

It seems that the intention of the film was to encourage Jewish tourism to Jerusalem.

Jerusalem

One of the most popular travel websites, Trip Advisor, recently set up a list of top 10 culture and sightseeing destinations. No, sorry to say, Jerusalem did not make number uno, but a proud number seven.

The list was compiled following a survey on the site.

This is what they have to say about Jerusalem:

Religious pilgrims have been traveling to Jerusalem for centuries, yet you don’t have to share their zeal in order to appreciate this city’s profound cultural and historical significance. Plan on seeing the major sights, but also leave plenty of time to walk through the streets and simply immerse yourself in the daily life of such an ancient and revered place.

On a personal note, I must tell you that Jerusalem has developed its own very special after hours life. More and more young, secular people are returning to Jerusalem, and creating something new and exciting.

So when you feel you can’t take more culture and history and religion, relax in one of the cities excellent eating places, or go our for a drink somewhere. There are too many for me to recommend here.

Tel Aviv

This follows a no less honorable place for Tel Aviv, as one of the top 10 Beach Cities in the world, by the prestigious magazine National Geographic.

This is what they say about Tel Aviv:

Call it Miami Beach on the Med. Tel Aviv is the Dionysian counterpart to religious Jerusalem. In the “bubble,” as it’s known for its
inhabitants’ tendency to tune out regional skirmishes, some restaurants, discos, and clubs are open until dawn. By day, the scene
shifts to the city’s promenade and eight miles (13 kilometers) of beach literally steps from town. Head to wide and sandy Gordon
Beach to sit in a seaside cafe or take a dip in the saltwater pool.

So if you are looking for a holiday that should include both history, culture and religion, as well as time for relaxing and a night out, all
within a hour of each other, Israel is your place.

Eilat

And just in. BBC Travel in conjunction with Loney Planet has come up with a list of 10 weirdest bars and restaurants. Yes, Israel is again on the list, this time as number two with the Red Sea Star in Eilat.

This is what they have to say about this place:

The Red Sea Star is a bit like Stromberg’s underwater lair in the 1977 James Bond flick The Spy Who Loved Me – which is unsurprising considering that it is 5m below the Red Sea in Israel. The interior of this bar-restaurant feels somewhat reminiscent of a mermaid’s lounge, with fishy fantasy motifs – including jellyfish-shaped stools and starfish-shaped lights – and huge windows through which curious (or possibly vengeful) fish and other marine creatures eyeball the customers eyeballing their seafood platters. If you crane your neck, you might see a ship overhead from time to time. Landlubbers will be relieved to find the rooftop Metro Bar is open 7pm-3am, the underwater bar opens from 10am; details at www.redseastar.com.

Of course, while in Eilat, you may enjoy some water sports and scupa diving, or snorkling. Or take in a desert tour. Or just use the beaches, or its amazing night life.

And if you do this in the winter, you could include a ski trip on the Hermon Mountain, with ski lift and all.

So there you have it. Culture, history, religion – Jerusalem. Beach city – Tel Aviv. Weird eating place – Eilat. I wonder what else we may have for us to be included in top ten.
What about the Dead Sea, for Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

Michelangelo

Without knowing it David became one of the most influential of historical figures. Whether he existed as told in the biblical stories or not has no importance here. For millenia and till today people hear the stories about King David, and many believe them true.

The account of David is one of the most detailed accounts of anyone in the Bible, beginning with his ancestors and to his death,  and descendants. We hear about his accomplishments as a warrior, as a player of the lyre and the writer of songs. But we also hear about his frailties and faults, of his relationships with some family members and supporters.

Who Was King David

David was the second king of ancient Israel. He is accredited with uniting the two kingdoms, Judah and Israel, under one united Kingdom of Israel. He is also the conqueror of the small town of Jebus, making it into his capital, under the new name Jerusalem. It is these two events that made the historical imprint.

He is generally believed to be born in 1040 BCE*, became king of Judah 1010 BCE and in 1003 BCE created the united Kingdom of Israel. He died in 970 BCE, to be followed by his son Solomon.

The only sources for the life and reign of David can be found in the Bible, in Samuel 1 and 2, 1 Kings and 1 Chronicles. There is to date only one extra biblical record where the name David appears. This is the Tel Dan Stele, an Aramaic inscription from 9th or 8th century BCE, commemorating victories over local peoples including Israel and The House of David.

Biblical Narrative – Early Days

David was the youngest of eight sons of Jesse, a grandson of Ruth and Boaz (Ruth 4:17). As a young man, while King Saul still ruled, he was annointed to be king by the prophet Samuel. (1 Samuel 16:13).

Carravagoio, 1600

While still a youth he was sent by his father to meet his three oldest brothers, who had joined King Saul in the battle against the Philistines in the Valley of Elah (1 Samuel 17:17). There David killed Goliath, the mightiest of the Philistine warriors, with a stone from his sling (1 Samuel 17:49), causing the Israelite victory. Saul takes him to his court and a deep friendship develops between David and Jonathan, Saul’s son (1 Samuel 18:1).

David becomes the most successful and renowned fighter in the Israelite army, loved by all, but causing Saul’s jealousy (1 Samuel 18: 5-16). Hoping to snare David, Saul arranges for his daughter Michal to marry David (1 Samuel 18:27). David is also known as an accomplished harp player (1 Samuel 18:10), and is accredited with writing many of the psalms.

David becomes an accomplished warrior, and captain of Saul’s army. His popularity enrages Saul, and David flees the court into the desert, where many men join his band. He comes to an agreement with one of the Philistine rulers, Achish of Gat, and stays in Ziglak for many years (David in wilderness and Ziglak 1 Samuel 19:1-30:31), only to return to Judah on the death of Saul and Jonathan during the battle with the Philistines at Mount Gilboa (1 Samuel 31).

David As King

David mourned the death of Saul and his sons (2 Samuel:11), moves to Hebron (2 Samuel 2:3), from where he rules for 7 years. After the death of Ish-boshet, Saul’s surviving son and ruler of Israel (2 Samuel 4:7), David is anointed king of Judah and Israel, the United Kingdom (2 Samuel 5:3).

He now conquers the Jebusite stronghold (2 Samuel 5:7), to become known as The City of David, Jerusalem. He establishes it as his capital and the center of worship by bringing the Ark of the Covenant into the city (2 Samuel 6:12). The Ark is placed on Mount Moriah, but David is not allowed by God to build a temple around it. This falls to his son, Solomon.

There are many stories about David as king, how he keeps defeating the Philistines and his relationship with friends and family. To recount them here would make long and tedious reading. But two stories are better known. The first is the story of his infatuation with Batsheba, the wife of Uriah the Hittite, how he disposes of Uriah, so he can marry Batsheba, who becomes the mother of Solomon (2 Samuel 11:1-27).

The other story is about his son, Absalom, who rebels against his father (2 Samuel 15:1—)  and his death (2 Samuel 18:14). The cause of the rebellion is partly the rape of Tamar, Absalom’s full sister, by her brother or rather half-brother Amnon (2 Samuel 13:1-14).

The End

Before his death David finally made order in his inheritance, and had Solomon annointed king (1 Kings 1:39). He dies soon hereafter (1 Kings 2:10), after having ruled his kingdom and people for 40 years.

His legacy is not only in creating the United Kingdom and making Jerusalem the religious center of Jewish worship. It goes much deeper. For Jews in later generations he becomes the ultimate symbol of unity and belonging to the Land. In later generations he came to be seen as a model for the mashiah (Hebrew for messiah). This is still true to some degree for certain parts of Jews today.

*BCE – Before Common Era; CE – Common Era.

As if Jerusalem needs more landmarks, what with the Old City, Mt. Olives, Temple Mount, Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, just to mention a few.

But Jerusalem also wants modern landmarks, and the latest is the Harp Bridge, or as it is often referred to in English – the String Bridge. It is one of those things that will not leave you cold. Either you hate it or you love it. For sure, it can be seen from long way away. On entering or leaving Jerusalem by Route One, you can’t help seeing it.

The Harp Bridge has been built to serve the light rail being installed in Jerusalem to relieve congestion and to get rid of some of the busses that today make up all of public transport in the city. Though construction of the rail is way overdue, the bridge was inaugurated a couple of years ago, and expected to be taken into use within two years. The only ones so far using the bridge are pedestrians, who can now safely cross the extremely busy intersection at the entrance to the city.

However, as a landmark is can also claim to be a world landmark. It is the longest, curved single support suspension bridge in the world. The support, or the Finger, rises to a height of 183 meters. I don’t know how long it is, but it is long. The whole structure was designed by the Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrav, the world’s expert on suspension bridges. It was built to the tune of $73 million, way above what a more conventional bridge would have cost. This alone was the subject of much of the controversy over the bridge. Discussions were also over the whether it fit into the Jerusalem landscape.

It became know as the Harp Bridge or String Bridge due to the massive wires strung from various points of the finger down to the bridge itself.

So now Jerusalem has its new landmark, whether we like it or not, whether we agree to the extraordinary cost (after all its already built). The citizens of Jerusalem have become used to it by now, and may already have forgotten, what they thought about it at first. You will see it, no doubt, when you visit Jerusalem.

Here is a news item on the String Bridge that give you different perspectives from around the time of its inauguration.

It is just coincidence that Jerusalem’s International Annual Half Marathon, the 18th, falls on March 18th this year. Participating in sports events of this kind is definitely being alive, and bringing more life to the city.

As in previous years participants come from all over Israel and all over the world. The route begins and ends in the Givat Ram Stadium of the Hebrew University and goes through some of Jerusalem’s unique and pictoresque landscapes. The route will take runners on a slightly hilly and challenging route and past the Shrine of the Book, housing the Dead Sea Scroll, the Israel Museum, the Knesset, Israel’s Parliament, and the Jerusalem forest.

The Marathon is set with two lengths: half marathon of 21.1 km and the fun run of 10 km. There are 18 different race categories, split by gender and age, from below 16 to 73 and above. 6 prices will be given out.

Participants of the half marathon are invited to participate in a gala dinner of pasta the evening before the race. All runners will receive a t-shirt and a certificate and medal.

Price for participation is $25-$40. Registration can be done online through marathon page in English on the municipality’s site www.jerusalem.muni.il.

If you are lucky you may run side by side with Nir Barkat, the mayor of Jerusalem, and an avid marathon runner himself.

Rare bust of Herod the Great, 1st C

Herod was born in 73 BCE to an Arab mother and an Edomite father, who some claim had converted to Judaism. He grew up in Hasmonean Judea, where he was raised as a Jew. At this time the Hasmonean kingdom, which had ruled since the Maccabean Revolt in 162 BCE, was being torn apart through a civil war between two princely brothers, Hyrcanus II and Aristobulus II. This at a time when Rome was the rising superpower of the ancient world.

Around the year 67 BCE Hyrcanus turns to Rome for help, and Rome enters under the conquest of General Pompei. Herod, as his father, had early on seen the benefits of siding with the Romans, and eventually it was the Romans who installed Herod as King of Judea.

This was not seen kindly by the Jewish population, and Herod had to fight for the throne against the people he was to rule over, a fight he finally won in 37 BCE. Despite having had to fight for the rule, throughout his rule till his death in 4 BCE he strove to keep a delicate balance between the Romans and his Jewish subjects, who fiercely strived to maintain their political and religious independence and uniqueness. Topped by this was the Jewish attitude to Herod. They always saw him as a “half-Jew”, an outsider imposed on them by the Romans.

This political astuteness is also displayed in his attitude to the Romans. In his early years he had aligned himself with Mark Antony, who ruled over the eastern part of the Roman Empire, while Octavian, later Augustus, ruled over the Western part. In 31 BCE Octavian defeats Mark Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle at Actium, to be followed by their suicide.

Herod is now in a precarious position. He travels to Cyprus to meet Octavian. Instead of denying his loyalty to Mark Antony, he underscores it, and promises the same loyalty to Octavian. Octavian, impressed, confirms him as ruler of Judea and later even adds land to the Herod’s realm.

Not only was Herod an astute politician, he was also a great economist and architect. Throughout his rule he rebuilds trade routes and industries, bringing the country to unprecedented prosperity and relative peace. Though raised a Jew, in heart he is Roman, and encourages Roman culture at all stages.

Herod is probably best known for two things: his cruelty and his architectural feats. To the Christian world he is known as the king, who ordered the killing of all male children to the age of two, as reported in Matthew 2: 16 (The only source to this story).

But in reality he was more cruel to his own family. When rumors reach him of a possible rebellion in favor of Miriamne, his beloved wife from the Hasmonean family, he orders her killed. At a later stage he also orders their sons to be killed, and later still he had three more sons killed.

As a builder he has gone unsurpassed throughout history. He built several fortresses throughout the country, the most famous – Masada and Herodion. Since the country lacked a deep-sea water port, he created one on the northern coast of the country, and surrounded it with a magnificent Roman town – Caesarea. He built himself palaces everywhere of a magnitude rarely seen elsewhere, in Jerusalem, in Jericho, on Masada and his pleasure palace and burial site, Herodion.

He donated money for many more building projects inside and outside of the country. But his greatest building project was Temple Mount in Jerusalem, a project he never saw completed.

Herod died in the year 4 BCE in his winter palace in Jericho, following long and painful illness, and short time later buried at Herodion.

Following his death, the Romans divided his kingdom among his three surviving sons: Archaelaus in Southern Judea with Jerusalem as his capital; Herod Antipas in the Galilee with Zippori as his capital; and Herod Phillip in the Gaulanitis with Banias, also known as Caesarea Philippi, as his capital.

For more detailed description of Herod, his career and his building projects, see National Geographic

© Copyright: Birte Edwards, Your Guide to Israel, January 2010

From around the year 200 BCE the land of Judea has been under the rule of the Seleucid Greeks. The first ruler Antiochus III was benevolent towards the Jews and had granted them the right to live according to their ancestral traditions. However, his son Antiochus IV Epiphanes turned this around, banned the daily sacrifices at the Temple in Jerusalem, in effect outlawing Judaism. He also banned circumcision and ordered pigs to be sacrificed in the Temple, and had a statue to Zeus installed in the Temple.

This proved too much for the Jews, and under the leadership of Jewish priest, Mattathias and his five sons, Yohanan, Simeon, Eleazar, Jonathan and Judah, they rose up in rebellion against the Greeks. After two years of fighting, the Jews came out successful, and had liberated Jerusalem and the Temple from the Greeks.

Judah Maccabee (Yehuda HaMacabi or Yehuda the Hammer) ordered all vestiges of the Greeks to be removed, including the alter that had been desecrated. A new alter was made. The whole Temple compound now needed to be purified and rededicated. To do so the Menorah (the Seven-Armed Candelabra) was to be lit and burn for eight days. However, the olive oil found was too little to burn for every night for eight days, as demanded.

Zohar, Alma and Dror lighting hanukkah candles

Despite that there was only enough oil for one night, the lights were lit, and a miracle occurred that they burnt for the full eight days. This happened on the 25th day of the Hebrew month of  Kislev.

To this day Jews all over begin the Hanukkah holiday on this day. The tradition is to light the hanukkiah (a nine armed candelabra). Nine – eight arms, one for each of the day of Hanukkah, and the ninth to light the other lights. This one is known as the shamash, the servant. The tradition is that on the first night of Hanukkah one light is lit with the shamash, on the second night two, and so on, till on the eight night all lights are burning.

During the lighting of the lights blessings are said. This is followed by the singing of Ma’oz Zur, and generally, especially here in Israel, with the singing of many other songs. Hanukka is the holiday with more songs than any other of the Jewish holidays.

Special foods belong to Hanukka, as with all other holidays. The foods for Hanukkah are traditionally food fried in oil (to remind of the oil used during the dedication). This holiday, more than any of the others, is characterized by foods high in calories, such as latkes, potato pancakes, and soufganiot, a type of doughnut, often injected with jam.

The sevivon, a four-sided spinning top is an integral part of Hanukkah. Each side is inscribed with a Hebrew letter – nun, gimel, heh and peh, for the four words: nes gadol haya po – a great miracle was here. Games developed around this sevivon, still played in many households.

Hag Sameah (Happy Holiday)

The part of the wall that is exposed is what is by most is referred to as The Western Wall. However, what we today can see is only a small section of a much larger wall that stretches for some 488 meters total. This larger wall is really the Western retaining wall to the Temple Mount, built by Herod  the Great, beginning 19 BCE.

What is commonly referred to as The Western Wall is 57 meter long and 19 meters high. There are a total of 45 courses of stone, 28 above present ground level, 17 below. These 17 courses plus 7 visible courses are the original stones from Herods retaining wall. The next four courses were added in the early Arab period (636-1099), the next 14 from the Ottoman period, and the last three were added in the 20th century.

Until the destruction of Jerusalem and the Temple by the Romans in the year 70 CE, it was the Temple, standing on the Temple Mount platform, that was the holy place for Jews, and where they would come three times a year to worship.

In the years following this destruction, Jews were banned from living in Jerusalem, and only allowed in at certain times of the year for devotion and prayers. At this early stage, Jews still harbored dreams of being allowed to rebuild the Temple, a dream that was finally thwarted in the 2nd century folloing the Bar Kochba Rebellion.

It is not clear when Jews began coming to this section to pray. We do know that Jews in 425 were granted permission to settle again in Jerusalem by the Empress Aelia Eudocia. There are some sources that indicate that at this stage Jews were beginning to pray at the Wall. We have many more sources from early Middle Ages that show that this was the place where Jews congregated for prayers and devotional purposes.

With the Arab conquest in 636, and the building of the Dome of the Rock and The Al-Aqsa Mosque on Temple Mount itself, all non-Moslems are now banned from entering this area.

Postcard, early 20th C

The large plaza in front of the Wall today was not always there. Following the Arar conquest of the land and Jerusalem from the Crusaders in 1193, the land in front of the Wall was built up and settled by Arabs from Morocco, and therefore became known as the Mograbi Quarter (Mograbi = Morocco).

In the centuries following is the time when the tradition of the holiness of the Wall becomes permanent. At the same time, Muslim traditions around the Wall grow up, and give rise to the Arab name for the Wall – Al Buraq. Al Buraq was the name of Mohammad’s horse, and the tradition is that this is where it was tethered while Mohammad himself went up on the mountain (Mohammad’s Night Journey).

Contention between Arab and Jews over the rights to the place intensified. Numerous attempts were made by various Jews and Jewish groups to purchase the right to the place, as well as the neighboring Mograbi Quarter, all without success.

In the first days immediately following the conquest of Jerusalem’s Old City during the Six-Day War in 1967, the Israel Army took upon itself to demolish the Mograbi Quarter. The reason for this were the many Israelis who began coming to Jerusalem, for the first time in 19 years, as well as the approaching holiday of Shavuot, one of the holidays Jews have to celebrate in Jerusalem.