Palace and hippodrome from the south

No tour through Caesarea is complete without a visit Herod’s palace. Although completely in ruins enough remains for us to see the enormous size of the largest of all the palaces built by Herod the Great. The partial reconstruction is an invaluable addition to understand what Herod’s palace must have looked like.

Caesarea was an impressive construction. As was Herod’s way he always chose the most impressive and often most difficult place for his own palace. In Caesarea he outdid himself.

The palace is situated on a promontory into the Mediterranean Sea on the south side of Caesarea, lodged between the theater and the hippodrome. In its final form it consisted of two levels, the lower, western level being earlier that the higher eastern level.

Reconstruction*

Entrance to the palace was from east, through a massive entry way that leads to the large courtyard (42 x 65 m). This courtyard was surrounded on all sides by a roof covered colonnade. The center of the courtyard had most likely been planted with trees, palms and shrubs that may even have created small secluded areas.

The courtyard was surrounded by rooms, the most impressive to be seen on the north side. This room has been named the Audience Hall. If so, this may have been the place where the rulers and governors received visitors and reviewed cases, such as Felix meeting Paul (Acts 24:26).

In the center of the courtyard stands a stone with an inscription. This stone has nothing to do with Herod. The stone is known as the Pontius Pilate stone, as the inscription mentions this important governor by name. It is most likely that Pontius Pilate, like all the other Roman governors, lived in this palace after Judea comes under direct Roman rule in the year 70 BE and made Caesarea the capital of the new Roman province.

On the northwest corner of the upper palace is a staircase leading down to the lower level. Unfortunately most of us can only look at the lower level from the upper level as the staircase is almost completely eroded away by the waves of the Mediterranean.

Pool, Lower Palace

What first strikes the visitor looking on the Lower Level is the large (35x18m) pool. The pool was surrounded by columns and rooms with a tall column in the center. Just below the viewpoint from the Upper Palace is the triclinium (93 m square). It’s difficult to see it and the two rooms adjoining, as they have been covered over to protect the mosaics found there.

Every time I come to this palace I am impressed. The sheer size of it, the scope, the location on the premonotory, the view over the Mediterranean. This is probably one of the most difficult sites for me to explain on paper !

* Student’s reconstruction of palace seen from the north. Courtesy Caesarea Maritima, a project of the University of Pennsylvania Museum

Rare bust of Herod the Great, 1st C

Herod was born in 73 BCE to an Arab mother and an Edomite father, who some claim had converted to Judaism. He grew up in Hasmonean Judea, where he was raised as a Jew. At this time the Hasmonean kingdom, which had ruled since the Maccabean Revolt in 162 BCE, was being torn apart through a civil war between two princely brothers, Hyrcanus II and Aristobulus II. This at a time when Rome was the rising superpower of the ancient world.

Around the year 67 BCE Hyrcanus turns to Rome for help, and Rome enters under the conquest of General Pompei. Herod, as his father, had early on seen the benefits of siding with the Romans, and eventually it was the Romans who installed Herod as King of Judea.

This was not seen kindly by the Jewish population, and Herod had to fight for the throne against the people he was to rule over, a fight he finally won in 37 BCE. Despite having had to fight for the rule, throughout his rule till his death in 4 BCE he strove to keep a delicate balance between the Romans and his Jewish subjects, who fiercely strived to maintain their political and religious independence and uniqueness. Topped by this was the Jewish attitude to Herod. They always saw him as a “half-Jew”, an outsider imposed on them by the Romans.

This political astuteness is also displayed in his attitude to the Romans. In his early years he had aligned himself with Mark Antony, who ruled over the eastern part of the Roman Empire, while Octavian, later Augustus, ruled over the Western part. In 31 BCE Octavian defeats Mark Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle at Actium, to be followed by their suicide.

Herod is now in a precarious position. He travels to Cyprus to meet Octavian. Instead of denying his loyalty to Mark Antony, he underscores it, and promises the same loyalty to Octavian. Octavian, impressed, confirms him as ruler of Judea and later even adds land to the Herod’s realm.

Not only was Herod an astute politician, he was also a great economist and architect. Throughout his rule he rebuilds trade routes and industries, bringing the country to unprecedented prosperity and relative peace. Though raised a Jew, in heart he is Roman, and encourages Roman culture at all stages.

Herod is probably best known for two things: his cruelty and his architectural feats. To the Christian world he is known as the king, who ordered the killing of all male children to the age of two, as reported in Matthew 2: 16 (The only source to this story).

But in reality he was more cruel to his own family. When rumors reach him of a possible rebellion in favor of Miriamne, his beloved wife from the Hasmonean family, he orders her killed. At a later stage he also orders their sons to be killed, and later still he had three more sons killed.

As a builder he has gone unsurpassed throughout history. He built several fortresses throughout the country, the most famous – Masada and Herodion. Since the country lacked a deep-sea water port, he created one on the northern coast of the country, and surrounded it with a magnificent Roman town – Caesarea. He built himself palaces everywhere of a magnitude rarely seen elsewhere, in Jerusalem, in Jericho, on Masada and his pleasure palace and burial site, Herodion.

He donated money for many more building projects inside and outside of the country. But his greatest building project was Temple Mount in Jerusalem, a project he never saw completed.

Herod died in the year 4 BCE in his winter palace in Jericho, following long and painful illness, and short time later buried at Herodion.

Following his death, the Romans divided his kingdom among his three surviving sons: Archaelaus in Southern Judea with Jerusalem as his capital; Herod Antipas in the Galilee with Zippori as his capital; and Herod Phillip in the Gaulanitis with Banias, also known as Caesarea Philippi, as his capital.

For more detailed description of Herod, his career and his building projects, see National Geographic

© Copyright: Birte Edwards, Your Guide to Israel, January 2010

The English name Masada comes from the Hebrew Metzada, which simply means “Fortress”. And that’s exactly what it is. Rising to a height of app. 450 m above Dead Sea (app. 50 m above sea level) with steep slopes on all sides, Masada is almost impossible to attack and conquer.

It was for this reason that Herod the Great chose it for the magnificent palaces he built there. The northern palace was intened to be the family palace. Herod chose the most spectacular locations and building plan, hanging the palace on three terraces on and below the nothern point.

Within the palace compound he built two Roman baths, storage rooms for food, wine, oil, wood. Guarding the palace entrance he built what modern archaelogists have termed “The Commandant’s House”. The three levels of the palace were connected with a staircase shaded most of the way.

In addition he built the Western Palace, intended to be the palace where visitors could be received and stay. It too has a Roman bath house and storage rooms. Scattered alongside the walls that surround the plateau are additional rooms, probably for servants and slaves, as well as workrooms for baking and cooking, as stables for mules and more.

Herod also made certain that there was plenty of water. Masada’s water collection system is one of the most brilliant of the ancient world.

But Masada is better known for the events that took place on the eve of Passover in the year 73 BC. In 66 BC the Jews of Judea and Galilee had started a rebellion against the Roman Empire. For four years the rebels held out, but finally in the year 70 CE the Roman reconquered Jerusalem, an event that for all intents and purposes ended the rebellion.

The exception was a handful of men, women and children who continue their struggle for freedom from Masada.
Well, I will not give away all the details, just know that the way it ended caused reverberations down through the generations and way into the modern State of Israel.

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