Secrets of  A Nazi Mascot

It is International Holocaust Day, and a time to remember and reflect. This is a tribute to the will to live, and the memory of all those who did not. Alex survived, as a Nazi mascot.

There are events, days and stories that need to be remembered. Even though many would prefer to sweep them out of history. The Holocaust is one of those times.

But I so agree with Israel’s first Prime Minister, when he said: We must learn to forgive, but never forget. The story here is to me unforgettable, even though it’s the first time I hear it. But what a story. It includes the horrors of that time, but also the strange path life takes in such times. It includes the indomitable determination to live, as well as the strange ways the human brain will act in order to survive.

This is a tribute to all of this and more.

Christmas is a time of joy, of being together with family and loved ones, of giving and receiving.

Here in the land where Jesus was born, Christmas is not an official holiday, but is very much celebrated by the Christian communities, as well as visitors.

Manger Square at Christmas

The main mass takes place in St. Catherine’s Church Bethlehem, and in the Grotto of Nativity in the Church of the Nativity. The celebrations start long before the mass, with the arrival of the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Click here for full details.
You have to purchase tickets to attend this mass, and only specially invitees will attend inside the Church. Most will see and hear the mass while standing outside in Manger Square.
If you ever do attend, remember to bring warm clothes. December can be very cold, even raining.

There are plenty of other places where you can participate in Christmas celebration in Jerusalem or Bethlehem or other places.

Below is a list of some of the services being held, either in English or multi lingual.

LATIN PATRIARCATE OF JERUSALEM AND BETHLEHEM – CHURCH OF NATIVITY, Bethlehem
DECEMBER 24 (Saturday)
1.00 pm                                          Beginning of celebrations
DECEMBER 25 (Sunday)
0.00 am at St. Catherine                  PONTIFICAL EUCHARISTIC CONCELEBRATION (Tickets required)

PONTIFICAL INSTITUTE – NOTRE DAME OF JERUSALEM CENTER,
New Gate, Tel. 6279111, Fax: 6271995
24 Dec.: 11.30 pm Carols and Christmas Midnight Mass (Multi-lingual)
25 Dec.: 10.00 am Solemn High Mass (Multi-lingual)
6.30 pm Holy Mass (Multi-lingual)

ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL OF ST. GEORGE,
20 Nablus Road, Tel. 6271670, Fax: 6273847, www.j-diocese.org
24 Dec.: 4.00 pm Carol Service in the Shepherds Field (YMCA) of Beit Sahour (Arabic/English)(reservations required)
11.30 pm Holy Eucharist “Midnight Mass” for the feast of the Nativity at the Cathedral, Jerusalem (Arabic/English)

CHRIST CHURCH, Jaffa Gate, Tel. 6277727/9, Fax: 6282999
24 Dec.: 7.00 pm -10.00 pm Christmas Carols in the Church
24 Dec: 10.30 pm Nine Lessons and Carols with Eucharist
25 Dec.: 10.30 am Family Christmas Service with Eucharist

LUTHERAN CHURCH OF THE REDEEMER,
Old City, Muristan Road, Tel. 6266800, Fax: 6276222
24 Dec.: 5.00 pm International Service in the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bethlehem
10.30 pm Christmette in the Redeemer Church in Jerusalem (free tickets required)
25 Dec.: 10.30 am Service in the Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Redeemer

ST. ANDREW’S SCOTS MEMORIAL CHURCH,
1 David Remez Street, Tel. 6732401, Fax: 6731711
24 Dec.: 11.15 pm Christmas Watchnight Service (English)
25 Dec.: 10.15 am Christmas Communion Service (English)

Services can also be found in Nazareth at the Church of the Annunciation and in Tiberias at the Scots Hotel.
Please visit Christian Information Center for further information.

From BIRTE EDWARDS, Your Guide to Israel

Haifa is spread on the northern slopes of the Carmel Mountain with the Mediterranean and the Bay of Haifa to the west and the north and is Israel’s third largest city.

Although the first settlement in the area has been dated to the 14th century BCE, it was and stayed a small village until the middle of the 19th century. The first push to growth and modernization came when members of the German Christian Templars settled there in 1868. They built and operated a steam based power station, opened factories and established a carriage service to Acco, Nazareth and Tiberias. The area they built is still known as The German Colony. The area has seen an almost complete restoration, and is today one of the “in” areas for good dining and living.

German Colony late 1930's

The next boost was in the late 19th century when European Jews settled there, developed agriculture and commerce. During the following waves of immigration many settled in Haifa, which was developing into the industrial area of the country. A further boost came during the British Mandate, when they built deep sea port, opened in 1933 and the oil refinery completed in 1944).

During the War of Independence the great majority of Arab residents of Haifa fled, so that today they are app. 10% of the total population.

Bahai Shrine, most famous landmark in Haifa

In 1909 The Bab, the forerunner for the Bahai faith, was laid to rest on land sloping down from the top of the Carmel Mountain to its base. Over the years, the Shrine has been enlarged and improved, and received its final shape in the 1950′s. The Shrine of the Bab, the second holiest place to the Bahai, and the surrounding 19 layers of terraced gardens have become one of the most famous landmarks of Haifa.

Haifa is today Israel’s third largest city with a municipal population of app. 275.000. But metropolitan Haifa includes a population of up to 600.000. It is the largest mixed population, with the majority being Jewish (90%), but with large minorities of Arabs (Christian and Muslim) as well as Druze.

Government building with port in background

For years Haifa was known as the “red” city, referring to the predominant population of manual workers. This was also expressed in the saying “Haifa works, Jerusalem prays, and Tel Aviv plays”. True, round Haifa are some of the largest industrial complexes in Israel (due in part to the proximity of the port). True, the port still plays a vital role in the economy of Haifa both as a commercial port and as a port for cruise ships. It also has the largest and oldest business park in the country (Matam).

But culture has always played an important part in the life of its residents.  It boasts the first municipal theater, as well as other theaters, The Haifa Cinematheque and congress halls. There are dozens of museums, as well as major institutions for higher learning, two of them with international credit – Haifa University and the Technion.

It is also still the only town in Israel with a subway and a cable car.
In short there is plenty to do and see while visiting Haifa.

Sites to see:
The Bahai Shrine and Gardens
Haifa Cable Car
Stella Maris and Elijah’s Cave
Israel National Museum of Science, Technology, and Space
Clandestine Immigration and Navy Museum

Courtyard of Citadel

There is a question I receive very often as a guide in Israel, in particular in the Old City of Jerusalem. It comes in various forms such as: “Are there any original buildings in the Old City?” “How old are these buildings?”

To talk about original buildings in Old Jerusalem is problematic. What is original? If we are talking about buildings dating to the first Jerusalem, the answer has to be an emphatic no. After all, Jerusalem has been built and destroyed innumerable times.

Dome of the Rock

If by original we talk about buildings that were built hundreds of years ago and are still standing, the answer must be yes. Examples of this are The Dome of the Rock and The El Aqsa Mosques on Temple Mount, built in the 7th and early 8th centuries, and still standing more or less as they were built. Another example is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, built in the 12th century by the Crusaders, and incorporating even older building from the 4th century.
So these buildings are original, although not necessarily the first buildings on the site.

But often the questions relate to the ordinary buildings used as housing or other mundane purposes. Again, it’s hard to come with a direct answer.

Housing showing several stages of construction

Many years ago I lived in an old, restored house in the Jewish Quarter. It was an old house that had been renovated and modernized as part of the general renovation of the Jewish Quarter, following the Six-Day War in 1967.
I am not exaggerating when I say some of the walls were more than 5 ft. thick. At the time I did not question how that came about, but today I do understand the process.
A long time ago, a house was built there. With the passing of time, it may have been damaged through acts of war or natural causes. Instead of tearing it down, as is so often done today, new layers of stone were pasted on to the walls, thereby making it structurally sound again, but of course also adding depth to the walls. This probably happened many times, until it today has those amazing thick walls.

A friend of mine also lived in an old building. And one day they decided to scrape away the newer levels. When they reached Crusader columns, they decided they had gone deep enough. And from then on part of the decorations of their living room were these 12th century columns.

Stone in secondary use

Another thing to understand is that most common building material in Jerusalem, indeed in Israel, is stone. In Jerusalem it is referred to as Jerusalem stone. But quarrying stone is expensive and takes time. So it was normal to use stones from destroyed buildings to build the new buildings.
Examples of this can be seen especially in archaeological sites all through the country. But many buildings in the Old City show this feature as well.

City wall next to Dung Gate showing several layers of construction

There are also architectural features that can easily be seen as you walk the alleys of the Old City that show how a building has undergone changes. There are arches in walls, now blocked up. There are walls with stones from obvious different ages.

So the answer to those first questions on being original and age of buildings is that there are original buildings. But there are even more stones that may have been quarried two thousand or more years ago, that are now in secondary use in relatively modern buildings. These stones are the proof of the continuous life in Jerusalem for more than three millennium.

How many construction periods do you see? Southern Temple Mount wall

History of Jewish people (and Israel) in three minutes?

It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words.
So how many words is a short animated movie worth?

One of the things that can be a little difficult is to understand the history of Israel and the Jewish people. What happened when – who were involved – who is the father of who and what they did and how it influenced history.

That’s why I often use pictures to explain a point. I love the fact that  many of our sites have models and drawings. In some places there are even short movies. The feedback from my tourists tell me how much these tools help them understand what happened or what something looked like.

One issue that is often brought up by my tourists is how to remember the the history of Israel, and the history of the Jewish people, and how the two are connected. It’s not easy to remember 3000 years of history, when you hear it the first time. It is still not easy to remember after hearing it several times in the course of a short visit, while trying to absorb and remember lots of other information.

That why I thought this little video might help.

Actually, it’s a history of the Jewish people, but the land of Israel is an integral part of that. Yes, a bunch of history of the land is missing in this video, but that’s because it’s the story of the Jewish people. Maybe one day I will come across something similar on the history of the Land of Israel.
If you need something to help you with the history, here’s a timeline I once created.

I am not saying I agree with everything the video says, but at least it’s said with humor. Have fun.

Entrance, obviously

When I first came to Israel in 1971, there were not many things happening in Jerusalem.

But one of the events that did take place was the Jerusalem International Book Fair. As avid readers we used to go there, browse among the thousands – no, sorry – tens of thousands of volumes in English, Hebrew, French, Spanish, and many other languages.

Angola and Romania

Two publishers in one corner

The Book Fair is for publishers to present their books, new or older publications, best sellers or less well known. They present books in almost all categories – literature, on art, crafts, professional topics, movies, history – local and worldwide and much much more.

It is also more friendly to the public, with reading areas and chairs for more comfortable browsing.

Every day there are some 25 events going on, such as

Panel Discussion on “The Digital Age – A new definition of publishing

Book presentations with the author

Dialogue between two authors – Israeli and visitor

Poetry Readings

Book Launches

Authors signing books

Special Exhibits

and much more

The Book Fair of course begins with the Opening Ceremony in the presence of Israeli leaders, especially the President of Israel. During the Opening the Jerusalem Prize is awarded. This year to the British writer, Ian McEwan.

Israel Radio Broadcasting

Even if you can’t make it there, you can still get some feel for what’s going on. A special corner was set up as a broadcasting station for Israel Radio. Interviews with writers, publishers and other involved in bringing all of this to us all.

It’s always great to see how many people still come browse for and buy books, especially in this age of electronic information. It is said that there are more readers per capita in Israel and that they read more books than anywhere else.

The Jerusalem International Book Fair takes place this time of the year every 2nd year in the Binyanei Ha”Omah Convention Center.

Opening hours usually is from 10 am to 10 pm on weekdays, and Friday to 1 pm.

If this is of interest, the best way to get further information is to google (as I did) Jerusalem International Book Fair.

Full photo coverage

This is rare footage of Jerusalem in 1918.

It was found with a Jewish family in Amsterdam. It is not clear if the head of the family filmed it himself or assembled it from various pieces.
It was uploaded by Yaacov Gross presumably for Hebrew speaking audience.
I apologize to my English readers that all titles are in Hebrew, but I hope you will enjoy it anyway. I wish I knew how to add English
subtitles.

The film shows Jerusalem inside the walls – Temple Mount, The Western Wall or as it was known then – the Wailing Wall. You will see the Arab market and Damascus Gate, as well as street scenes from just inside Jaffa Gate. There are shots of the Tomb of David on Mt. Zion, of “David’s Well” – better known as the Gihon Spring today; of Rachel’s Tomb and the Tomb of Absalom in the Kidron Valley.
There are also a few shots of Jaffa Road, main street of Jerusalem outside the Walls, then and now.

The film is shows Jerusalem after the collapse of Ottoman (Turkish) rule. But before the British rule has really taken affect.

It seems that the intention of the film was to encourage Jewish tourism to Jerusalem.

Jerusalem on Yom Kippur

This was by no means my first Yom Kippur in Israel. I have seen major cities die from all traffic on this day, but it was the first time I was able to experience the completely empty highways.

Yom Kippur is the holiest day for Jews all over the world. In English it is usually called The Day of Atonement. It is best known as a full fasting day, lasting from sundown to sundown. It is a complete fast, meaning you can’t drink or eat anything for the 25 hours that it lasts. You are supposed to spend the day in the synagogue.

Now in Israel this is taken very seriously. In fact the whole country closes down, and I mean completely. It is more closed on this one day, than on any shabbat through the year. When I say closed down for Yom Kippur it means not just no work, for anybody, but it means no radio, no television, no entertainment of any kind, and it means no cars on the road.

Now even though a very large part of the Israeli population does not fast, all will respect this day, which means that we all accept that there is no television and radio, and none of us will drive during this day.

I can’t express this in words, and I am not sure you will really understand this, but the country becomes quiet, totally quiet., the kind of quiet the world lived with until the invention of cars. I love this quiet. It comes from having no cars on the roads, like a silent white noise that we don’t really hear, but is there all the time.

So what was different this Yom Kippur? This year I spent it with my daughter and her family on the moshav. Their moshav is right off one of Israel’s major highways, route no. 2, between Tel Aviv and Haifa.

As is the habit all over Israel, on the evening we go walking, and the children get on their bikes. They can drive everywhere without fear of cars. There are none.

So last night we walked to route no. 2, and we walked on route no. 2. The kids were racing down the three-lanes highway. The teenagers were sitting on the barrier separating the north bound lane from the south bound lane. The younger children were drawing on the tarmac of the highway. This went on very late, and continued the next day, at least the biking.

We hung around there for a couple of hours together with a great number of other residents of the moshav. And in all that time we only saw two cars, both of them police cars with their flashing blue lights.

I had wanted to bring my video camera to document this extraordinary scene. Now I am truly sorry that I didn’t, because I know none of the people there would have minded. So it will have to wait till next Yom Kippur for me to show you how a country can close down completely for 24 hours, and have bicycles races on the highways. The two pictures I found on google will have to do.

I know I as a guide has always claimed how exciting it is to visit Israel, and particularly Jerusalem. I never get tired of showing off this amazing city. And as I do I constantly see things, I’ve never noticed before. And now I have proof.

Jerusalem

One of the most popular travel websites, Trip Advisor, recently set up a list of top 10 culture and sightseeing destinations. No, sorry to say, Jerusalem did not make number uno, but a proud number seven.

The list was compiled following a survey on the site.

This is what they have to say about Jerusalem:

Religious pilgrims have been traveling to Jerusalem for centuries, yet you don’t have to share their zeal in order to appreciate this city’s profound cultural and historical significance. Plan on seeing the major sights, but also leave plenty of time to walk through the streets and simply immerse yourself in the daily life of such an ancient and revered place.

On a personal note, I must tell you that Jerusalem has developed its own very special after hours life. More and more young, secular people are returning to Jerusalem, and creating something new and exciting.

So when you feel you can’t take more culture and history and religion, relax in one of the cities excellent eating places, or go our for a drink somewhere. There are too many for me to recommend here.

Tel Aviv

This follows a no less honorable place for Tel Aviv, as one of the top 10 Beach Cities in the world, by the prestigious magazine National Geographic.

This is what they say about Tel Aviv:

Call it Miami Beach on the Med. Tel Aviv is the Dionysian counterpart to religious Jerusalem. In the “bubble,” as it’s known for its
inhabitants’ tendency to tune out regional skirmishes, some restaurants, discos, and clubs are open until dawn. By day, the scene
shifts to the city’s promenade and eight miles (13 kilometers) of beach literally steps from town. Head to wide and sandy Gordon
Beach to sit in a seaside cafe or take a dip in the saltwater pool.

So if you are looking for a holiday that should include both history, culture and religion, as well as time for relaxing and a night out, all
within a hour of each other, Israel is your place.

Eilat

And just in. BBC Travel in conjunction with Loney Planet has come up with a list of 10 weirdest bars and restaurants. Yes, Israel is again on the list, this time as number two with the Red Sea Star in Eilat.

This is what they have to say about this place:

The Red Sea Star is a bit like Stromberg’s underwater lair in the 1977 James Bond flick The Spy Who Loved Me – which is unsurprising considering that it is 5m below the Red Sea in Israel. The interior of this bar-restaurant feels somewhat reminiscent of a mermaid’s lounge, with fishy fantasy motifs – including jellyfish-shaped stools and starfish-shaped lights – and huge windows through which curious (or possibly vengeful) fish and other marine creatures eyeball the customers eyeballing their seafood platters. If you crane your neck, you might see a ship overhead from time to time. Landlubbers will be relieved to find the rooftop Metro Bar is open 7pm-3am, the underwater bar opens from 10am; details at www.redseastar.com.

Of course, while in Eilat, you may enjoy some water sports and scupa diving, or snorkling. Or take in a desert tour. Or just use the beaches, or its amazing night life.

And if you do this in the winter, you could include a ski trip on the Hermon Mountain, with ski lift and all.

So there you have it. Culture, history, religion – Jerusalem. Beach city – Tel Aviv. Weird eating place – Eilat. I wonder what else we may have for us to be included in top ten.
What about the Dead Sea, for Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

Rosh Hashana, literally head of the year, is accepted as the New Year within the Jewish calendar.

Jewish concept of a new year is somewhat different from Christian concept. Rosh Hashana is part of a longer period known as the High Holidays. It begins about a week earlier, includes Rosh Hashana, Yom Kippur and Sukkoth.

Since Rosh Hashana symbolizes the beginnings, a traditional belief has it that this day is the sixth day of Creation (the day man was created and all creating completed). Rosh Hashana is also seen as the day of God inscribing you into the Book of Life, which is sealed on Yom Kippur.

A period preceding Rosh HaShana is known as Shlihot (forgiveness). For many this entails getting up earlier than usual, as the shlihot prayers are usually said at midnight or before sunrise. There are areas in Jerusalem where this has become a great tradition, attracting Jerusalemites from all its neighborhoods.

Like all Jewish holidays Rosh Hashana begins at sundown, in this case marking the end of the month of Elul and the beginning of the month of Tishrei. It is generally celebrated for two days, partly because after the destruction of the 2nd Temple (70 CE) it became difficult to determine the exact day of the new moon.

Part of the celebrations is to hear the blowing of the horn, usually a ram’s horn, as was done in the days of the Temple to mark the beginning of holy days, including Shabbat. This blowing is known as the tekiot.

There are of course traditional foods linked to this holiday. Since Rosh Hashana begins with sundown, families join together to celebrate. As part of the blessings of the evening and the holiday, apple slices are dipped in honey, to symbolize the sweetness of the year to come.

For some it is also customary to add meat from the head of an animal or even a fish head, to mark beginning (rosh=head). Other foods eaten by many are dates and pomegranates. Often a special blessing may be said when serving pomegranate: May you have as many blessings in the New Year as there are seeds in the pomegranate.

Rosh HaShana is an official holiday in Israel, and so all places of work are closed, as well as shops, schools. It is considered as a shabbat.

Since all Jewish holidays follow the Jewish calendar there are always variations in the Christian calendar, but generally Rosh Hashana falls in September, to be followed by Yom Kippur and Sukkoth.