Palace and hippodrome from the south

No tour through Caesarea is complete without a visit Herod’s palace. Although completely in ruins enough remains for us to see the enormous size of the largest of all the palaces built by Herod the Great. The partial reconstruction is an invaluable addition to understand what Herod’s palace must have looked like.

Caesarea was an impressive construction. As was Herod’s way he always chose the most impressive and often most difficult place for his own palace. In Caesarea he outdid himself.

The palace is situated on a promontory into the Mediterranean Sea on the south side of Caesarea, lodged between the theater and the hippodrome. In its final form it consisted of two levels, the lower, western level being earlier that the higher eastern level.

Reconstruction*

Entrance to the palace was from east, through a massive entry way that leads to the large courtyard (42 x 65 m). This courtyard was surrounded on all sides by a roof covered colonnade. The center of the courtyard had most likely been planted with trees, palms and shrubs that may even have created small secluded areas.

The courtyard was surrounded by rooms, the most impressive to be seen on the north side. This room has been named the Audience Hall. If so, this may have been the place where the rulers and governors received visitors and reviewed cases, such as Felix meeting Paul (Acts 24:26).

In the center of the courtyard stands a stone with an inscription. This stone has nothing to do with Herod. The stone is known as the Pontius Pilate stone, as the inscription mentions this important governor by name. It is most likely that Pontius Pilate, like all the other Roman governors, lived in this palace after Judea comes under direct Roman rule in the year 70 BE and made Caesarea the capital of the new Roman province.

On the northwest corner of the upper palace is a staircase leading down to the lower level. Unfortunately most of us can only look at the lower level from the upper level as the staircase is almost completely eroded away by the waves of the Mediterranean.

Pool, Lower Palace

What first strikes the visitor looking on the Lower Level is the large (35x18m) pool. The pool was surrounded by columns and rooms with a tall column in the center. Just below the viewpoint from the Upper Palace is the triclinium (93 m square). It’s difficult to see it and the two rooms adjoining, as they have been covered over to protect the mosaics found there.

Every time I come to this palace I am impressed. The sheer size of it, the scope, the location on the premonotory, the view over the Mediterranean. This is probably one of the most difficult sites for me to explain on paper !

* Student’s reconstruction of palace seen from the north. Courtesy Caesarea Maritima, a project of the University of Pennsylvania Museum

Overlooking excavations toward Tel Beit Shean

Beit Shean is located in the Jordan Valley, some 30 km south of the Sea of Galilee. It is considered one of the oldest towns of Israel. Archaeological excavations have revealed that the first human settlement took place in the Calcholitic period (4th millennium BCE). But it is most famous as the Roman city Scythopolis.

Origins and Name
As with many other ancient towns it was travel routes that determined location. Beit Shean is situated on the cross roads of the north-south route through the Jordan Valley and the eastern entrance to the Jezreel Valley at a point, where there is easy crossing over the Jordan River. It could therefore serve as a stop on the trading routes, as well as a buffer town and defense of the Jezreel Valley, the largest and most fertile valley in Israel.

The origin of the name is lost in the mist of time, but place names beginning with Beit (house) is an indication of the age of the site. The name may have derived from a god by the name of Shean, once worshiped in this place. Excavations have revealed almost continual settlement from the beginning to 8th century BCE, when it was conquered and destroyed by Tiglath Pileser III of Assyria, when he conquered the Kingdom of Israel in 732 BCE.

From the theater toward Tel

It was resettled in the Hellenistic period, but attained its finest hours in the Roman and Byzantine periods, when it became known as Scythopolis, one of the cities of the Decapolis. It is mainly this period that is Beit Shean’s cause to fame, and part of the Israeli touring map.

Excavations and History
The excavations have revealed a strong Egyptian influence in 15-12th centuries BCE. According to the Bible it was one of the cities that were NOT conquered by Joshua, and it continued as a Philistine-Canaanite town till the early part of the 10th century BCE, when it was destroyed, possibly by King David.

Although not part of the areas settled by the early Israelites, Beit Shean in mentioned in the Bible (I Samuel 31:10-12) as the place where the bodies of King Saul and his sons were impaled after their defeat at Mt. Gilboa to the south. It is also mentioned as an important administrative center during the reigh of King Solomon (I Kings 4:12). After its conquest by the Assyrians in the late 8th century BCE, it declined in importance and very little evidence has been found from this period.

Greek and Roman
In the Hellenistic period (beg. 323 BCE) the town sees a revival. But only with the advent of the Romans under General and triumvir Pompey in 67 BCE does the town rise to new importance. As part of the new administrative order Beit Shean is given a new name, Scythopolis, and made part of the Decapolis, Union of Ten Cities, with the other nine towns being on the east side of the Jordan River.

As the name indicates, it became an autonomous town (polis) with extensive self-ruling rights, including the right to mint its own coins, as well as counting the years from this date. Dionysis was accredited with having founded the city, and was therefore the main Roman god worshiped here. Nysa, Dionysis’ nursemaid, was believed to be buried there.

Massive new public and private construction begins, little of which can be seen today, due to reconstruction in later periods. It is primarily in the 2nd century CE that Scythopolis reached its final shape that we can see today.

Following the earthquake in 363 it was rebuilt and expanded. Many churches were built in the city, often on top of the former Roman temples. The expansion continued through the fifth century , when Scythopolis became an important resting place for Christian pilgrims journeying between Galilee and Jerusalem. It reached its greatest size then, some 40.000 residents.

Arab and Crusader
As a result of wars in the early seventh century and the conquest by the Arabs in 636 the city begins its final decline. The collapse of the city was finalized on January 18, 749 during the massive earthquake that shook the whole region. Although an Arab village was built on the ruins, and a Crusader fortress was built nearby, Beit Shean never recovered and got buried under the earth and sand of time.

Only the modern excavations have begun to reveal the glory that was Beit Shean/Scythopolis.

A tour through Beit Shean should include
The Theater
The Great Bath House
The Street of Palladious, The Sigma Square, Mona Lisa Mosaic
The Monumental Building
The Amphitheater

The tour can also include:
Sylvanus Street, Nymphaeum, Colonaded Pool
Tel Beit Shean

Caesarea is probably one of the most famous ancient cities of Israel, apart from Jerusalem.
It was founded around the year 22 BCE* by Herod the Great, and named in honor of Caesar Augustus.

Due to the great port built by Herod, the town becomes one of the hubs of the country. It remains one of the main port cities until its final destruction by the Mamelukes in the late 13th century.

From the creation of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority in its various developments, Caesarea has been one of the most visited sites.

Parts of the ancient Roman city have been partly reconstructed, especially the theater, which is used every summer as one of the most spectacular outdoor stages for all the performing arts.

When you visit Caesarea allow yourself good time, not just to walk the city, but also to see the Caesarea Experience, where the virtual movie will take you back to Herod’s Dream, but where you can also ask questions of 12 historical figures associated with Caesarea, such as Herod, Pontius Pilate, Queen Helena and Hanna Shenesh.

*BCE – Before Common Era. CE – Common Era

Join me in a brief movie through Ceasarea

Brief Historical Outline of Caesarea

2nd century BCE
First settlement, Strato’s Tower, small Sidonian village

22 BCE

Caesar Augustus

Founded by Herod the Great (ruled 37-4 BCE), named in honor of the Roman Emporer Caesar Augustus. The town is centered around a deep sea port, Sebastia, the second largest port in the Roman Empire. Around this were built storerooms, market places, imposing public buildings, bath housesa theatre, a hippodrome, temples to Rome and Augustus, as well as Herod’s own palace, and housing for the ordinary citizens.

6 CE
Judea comes under direct Roman rule, and Caesarea becomes the capital of Judea. The Roman governor had his residence here. The first to be verified as such is Pontius Pilate (26-36 CE), on a dedication stone carrying his name, found in the Roman theatre during excavations.

Cornelius, a Roman Centurion, is the first gentile to be converted to Christianity by Peter. Paul is kept in house arrest here, before sailing to Rome and his trial.

66 CE
A strife breaks out between the Jewish and Syrian communities of Caeserea, which includes the desecration of the Jewish synagogue. The becomes one of the contributary causes of the First Jewish Rebellion against Rome (66-70 BC).

After the rebellion the town continues to thrive as one of the foremost maritime towns of the area and the Roman empire.

3rd-6th century
Early Christian scholars and church fathers, such as Origen, establish study centers. Eusebius (260-340) becomes the first Bishop of Caesarea.

From 324, with the acceptance of Christianity as a religion within the Roman Empire, by Emperor Constantine the Great, Caesarea becomes an

Constantine the Great , Hagia Sophia Mosaic

important venue for pilgrims arriving to the Holy Land or departing.

Due to the shifting of the sea bed and earthquakes, the port has begun to disintegrate, but is still big and important trading point.

636
Palestine and Caesarea are conquered by the Arabs. Due to its continued disintegration, the town loses its splendor and declines.

1101-1291
The town falls to the Crusaders, who build a large fortress over and around the ruins of the harbor. Caesarea becomes an

Crusader Knight

important town for the Crusaders in maintaining contact with Europe. 1187 – Following the Crusader defeat at the Horns of Hittin, Caesarea is taken by Salah E-din, who
proceeds to demolish its fortifications.

1219 – Retaken by the Crusaders, who start to refortify the town. This is completed by Louis IX of France in 1251. 1291 – The town falls for the last time, this time to the Mameluke Sultan Baybars, who proceeds to completely demolish the town.

Caesarea and the whole coastal plain lies desolate and unused for almost 500 years.

1878
The Turks allows a small group of refugees from Bosnia to settle within the ruins of Caesarea. They rebuild some of the buildings as well as the mosque and its minaret, one of the landmarks in modern Caesarea.

20th Century
Large areas of land around Caesarea was in private ownership of the Rothschild family. With the establishement of the State of Israel these areas come under the development of the The Caesarea Edmond Benjamin de Rothschild Foundation, to which was later added the Development Corporation Ltd.

Many archaeological excavations of ancient Caesarea, as well an reconstruction and reuse of certain part.

More information:
Caesarea Official Tourist Site
Caesarea Development Corporation

In 1955 the first law to protect nature in Israel was passed by the Knesset (Parliament). It is known as the Wild Animals Protection Law, and came into being in order to save the remnants of many animals species threatened with extinction, due to hunting and total disregard for the nature of the land up till then.

In 1963 an additional law came into being, establishing two government authorities:

The National Parks Authority – to protect, maintain and develop historical sites
The Nature Reserves Authority – to protect, maintain and develop nature reserves.

Israel Nature and Parks Authority the Caretaker of World Heritage Sites

In 1988 the two authorities were joined into one, The Israel Nature and Parks Authority, INPA. As of May 2007, 190 nature reserves and 66 national parks have been officially declared so far, covering an area of approximately 20 percent of Israel’s land mass. But the INPA does not rest on its laurels: More than 200 additional proposed nature reserves and national parks are in various stages of the declaration process.

These parks stretch from Mount Hermon in the north with its snow covered peaks in the winter (and a ski resort), through green Mediterranean country side and wetlands, where until the 19th century cheetahs could still be seen, as well as wetlands, to the mountain highland of Judah and Samaria, through the Negev Desert to the coral reefs at the Red Sea and Eilat. Within this area are unique natural phenomena like the Dead Sea and the Ramon Crater, geological developments not found anywhere else in the world.

The richness in the natural landscapes and its flora and fauna is a result of Israel lying as a meeting point between Europe, Africa and Asia.

The INPA also looks after the vast number of historical sites, many of the hundreds, even thousands of years old. These sites are the foundation for the understanding of the country’s history and cultural development, which has had such a profound impact on world history.

Following the adoption by UNESCO of the charter to protect cultural and natural sites of global importance, the INPA has invested considerable resources in gaining inscription in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The first site, Masada, was inscribed in 2001, followed in 2005 by biblical tells of Tel Megiddo, Tel Hazor and Tel Be’er Sheva, to be followed by the Incense Route and the Nabatean towns of Avdat, Shivta, Halutza and Mamshit. Other sites will hopefully be inscribed in the future.

The Israel Nataure and Parks Authority continues its work to protect nature and historical and cultural sites. It has successful programs to re-introduce animals that became extinct, is involved in the protection of the countries shorelines and much more.

For anyone interested in knowing more about the Israel Nature and Parks Authority.

In later articles I will write about some of the parks.

Make sure that a number of the parks will be on your private guided tour

The English name Masada comes from the Hebrew Metzada, which simply means “Fortress”. And that’s exactly what it is. Rising to a height of app. 450 m above Dead Sea (app. 50 m above sea level) with steep slopes on all sides, Masada is almost impossible to attack and conquer.

It was for this reason that Herod the Great chose it for the magnificent palaces he built there. The northern palace was intened to be the family palace. Herod chose the most spectacular locations and building plan, hanging the palace on three terraces on and below the nothern point.

Within the palace compound he built two Roman baths, storage rooms for food, wine, oil, wood. Guarding the palace entrance he built what modern archaelogists have termed “The Commandant’s House”. The three levels of the palace were connected with a staircase shaded most of the way.

In addition he built the Western Palace, intended to be the palace where visitors could be received and stay. It too has a Roman bath house and storage rooms. Scattered alongside the walls that surround the plateau are additional rooms, probably for servants and slaves, as well as workrooms for baking and cooking, as stables for mules and more.

Herod also made certain that there was plenty of water. Masada’s water collection system is one of the most brilliant of the ancient world.

But Masada is better known for the events that took place on the eve of Passover in the year 73 BC. In 66 BC the Jews of Judea and Galilee had started a rebellion against the Roman Empire. For four years the rebels held out, but finally in the year 70 CE the Roman reconquered Jerusalem, an event that for all intents and purposes ended the rebellion.

The exception was a handful of men, women and children who continue their struggle for freedom from Masada.
Well, I will not give away all the details, just know that the way it ended caused reverberations down through the generations and way into the modern State of Israel.

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