Christmas is a time of joy, of being together with family and loved ones, of giving and receiving.

Here in the land where Jesus was born, Christmas is not an official holiday, but is very much celebrated by the Christian communities, as well as visitors.

Manger Square at Christmas

The main mass takes place in St. Catherine’s Church Bethlehem, and in the Grotto of Nativity in the Church of the Nativity. The celebrations start long before the mass, with the arrival of the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Click here for full details.
You have to purchase tickets to attend this mass, and only specially invitees will attend inside the Church. Most will see and hear the mass while standing outside in Manger Square.
If you ever do attend, remember to bring warm clothes. December can be very cold, even raining.

There are plenty of other places where you can participate in Christmas celebration in Jerusalem or Bethlehem or other places.

Below is a list of some of the services being held, either in English or multi lingual.

LATIN PATRIARCATE OF JERUSALEM AND BETHLEHEM – CHURCH OF NATIVITY, Bethlehem
DECEMBER 24 (Saturday)
1.00 pm                                          Beginning of celebrations
DECEMBER 25 (Sunday)
0.00 am at St. Catherine                  PONTIFICAL EUCHARISTIC CONCELEBRATION (Tickets required)

PONTIFICAL INSTITUTE – NOTRE DAME OF JERUSALEM CENTER,
New Gate, Tel. 6279111, Fax: 6271995
24 Dec.: 11.30 pm Carols and Christmas Midnight Mass (Multi-lingual)
25 Dec.: 10.00 am Solemn High Mass (Multi-lingual)
6.30 pm Holy Mass (Multi-lingual)

ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL OF ST. GEORGE,
20 Nablus Road, Tel. 6271670, Fax: 6273847, www.j-diocese.org
24 Dec.: 4.00 pm Carol Service in the Shepherds Field (YMCA) of Beit Sahour (Arabic/English)(reservations required)
11.30 pm Holy Eucharist “Midnight Mass” for the feast of the Nativity at the Cathedral, Jerusalem (Arabic/English)

CHRIST CHURCH, Jaffa Gate, Tel. 6277727/9, Fax: 6282999
24 Dec.: 7.00 pm -10.00 pm Christmas Carols in the Church
24 Dec: 10.30 pm Nine Lessons and Carols with Eucharist
25 Dec.: 10.30 am Family Christmas Service with Eucharist

LUTHERAN CHURCH OF THE REDEEMER,
Old City, Muristan Road, Tel. 6266800, Fax: 6276222
24 Dec.: 5.00 pm International Service in the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bethlehem
10.30 pm Christmette in the Redeemer Church in Jerusalem (free tickets required)
25 Dec.: 10.30 am Service in the Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Redeemer

ST. ANDREW’S SCOTS MEMORIAL CHURCH,
1 David Remez Street, Tel. 6732401, Fax: 6731711
24 Dec.: 11.15 pm Christmas Watchnight Service (English)
25 Dec.: 10.15 am Christmas Communion Service (English)

Services can also be found in Nazareth at the Church of the Annunciation and in Tiberias at the Scots Hotel.
Please visit Christian Information Center for further information.

From BIRTE EDWARDS, Your Guide to Israel

Courtyard of Citadel

There is a question I receive very often as a guide in Israel, in particular in the Old City of Jerusalem. It comes in various forms such as: “Are there any original buildings in the Old City?” “How old are these buildings?”

To talk about original buildings in Old Jerusalem is problematic. What is original? If we are talking about buildings dating to the first Jerusalem, the answer has to be an emphatic no. After all, Jerusalem has been built and destroyed innumerable times.

Dome of the Rock

If by original we talk about buildings that were built hundreds of years ago and are still standing, the answer must be yes. Examples of this are The Dome of the Rock and The El Aqsa Mosques on Temple Mount, built in the 7th and early 8th centuries, and still standing more or less as they were built. Another example is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, built in the 12th century by the Crusaders, and incorporating even older building from the 4th century.
So these buildings are original, although not necessarily the first buildings on the site.

But often the questions relate to the ordinary buildings used as housing or other mundane purposes. Again, it’s hard to come with a direct answer.

Housing showing several stages of construction

Many years ago I lived in an old, restored house in the Jewish Quarter. It was an old house that had been renovated and modernized as part of the general renovation of the Jewish Quarter, following the Six-Day War in 1967.
I am not exaggerating when I say some of the walls were more than 5 ft. thick. At the time I did not question how that came about, but today I do understand the process.
A long time ago, a house was built there. With the passing of time, it may have been damaged through acts of war or natural causes. Instead of tearing it down, as is so often done today, new layers of stone were pasted on to the walls, thereby making it structurally sound again, but of course also adding depth to the walls. This probably happened many times, until it today has those amazing thick walls.

A friend of mine also lived in an old building. And one day they decided to scrape away the newer levels. When they reached Crusader columns, they decided they had gone deep enough. And from then on part of the decorations of their living room were these 12th century columns.

Stone in secondary use

Another thing to understand is that most common building material in Jerusalem, indeed in Israel, is stone. In Jerusalem it is referred to as Jerusalem stone. But quarrying stone is expensive and takes time. So it was normal to use stones from destroyed buildings to build the new buildings.
Examples of this can be seen especially in archaeological sites all through the country. But many buildings in the Old City show this feature as well.

City wall next to Dung Gate showing several layers of construction

There are also architectural features that can easily be seen as you walk the alleys of the Old City that show how a building has undergone changes. There are arches in walls, now blocked up. There are walls with stones from obvious different ages.

So the answer to those first questions on being original and age of buildings is that there are original buildings. But there are even more stones that may have been quarried two thousand or more years ago, that are now in secondary use in relatively modern buildings. These stones are the proof of the continuous life in Jerusalem for more than three millennium.

How many construction periods do you see? Southern Temple Mount wall

Nights in November may be cold, especially in Jerusalem and more specifically in the evenings. But that should not hold anyone back from enjoying something unique – The Knights Festival in the Old City of Jerusalem.

Royalty in Jerusalem? Not since the Crusader times. But they are inviting you to experience the medieval festivities taking place in Jerusalem during the month of November.

The royal family has put on spectacular festivities every Thursday night during November. They have invited  knights,  singers,  troubadours, magicians, dancers, soothsayers and court jesters and much more to entertain you, and to show you Jerusalem’s magic.

Your best access to the festivities is to enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate, and then wander through the Christian Quarter, particularly down to the Muristan Square. But keep your eyes and ears open for the entertainers are everywhere. This is truly a royal affair. All expenses for the entertainment has been paid for. You enjoy it all free of charge.

You may end up spending something, as some of the shop keepers will stay open late, as well as the eateries.

For more information: Jerusalem-Old City, Knights Festival

Of the seven open gates to the Old City of Jerusalem, one of the most used gates is the Jaffa Gate.
The Jaffa Gate is unique in several ways. It is the only gate on the south side of the Old City, and it is the only one of the gates that sits at a right to the walls.

The name derives from the old port town of Jaffa (modern Tel Aviv-Jaffa), as does the main street of Jerusalem leading from the Jaffa Gate westward. Due to the many modern renovations in the area, it can be a little difficult today to see the connection between the two.

As early as late 2nd C BCE walls were built in this area with a gate for easy access from the south and west. Remains of this early wall were discovered during excavations and renovation work in the 1990s and can been seen today just outside the gate. Herod the Great reinforced the defense of the area with the Citadel and adorned it with three towers. The bases of these towers can still be seen inside Jaffa Gate as part of the Citadel.

Nothing much has been found of walls or gates from later periods.

The grave of one of the architects. Site is a bit neglected, with hope that someone will soon fully restore it

The present Jaffa Gate was built in 1538 under the orders of the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, as part of the rebuilding of all the walls around the city. Just inside the gate (on left hand) is a small area with two graves. The story is that these are the graves of the two architects who built the walls for the Sultan. However, when he was told that they had not included Mt. Zion and the Tomb of King David within the walls, he had them executed, but as a sign of honor to the otherwise great job, they were buried inside the Jaffa Gate.

App. 1890, Walls have not yet been breached

It stood pretty untouched for almost 400 years. Then, in 1898 the German Kaiser, Wilhelm II, came on a state visit. The Ottoman authorities wanted the Kaiser to have full triumphant entry into the city (remember at that time there was pretty much nothing outside the city).

For this they filled in the moat and tore down a small section of the walls, so the Kaiser could drive into the city in his carriage with raiser banner raised. The story is that the Ottomans had intended to rebuild the walls after the visit, but they never got round to it.

From around the latter part of 19th century, shops, stalls and service stations start to spring up both inside and outside the gate. It was already then one of the major entries and exits from the city.

General Allenby leaving Jaffa Gate,

In 1917 the British General Allenby entered the city on foot, apparently to show his respect for the city.

In the years of divided Jerusalem, the gate was pretty unused, as the Old City was under Jordanian rule, with the boundary just outside. No entry, no exit.

2011, as seen from inside the city, with breaching on left, gate on right

Following the Six-Day War in 1967 the gate, as well as the area both inside and outside, have seen major changes. The Mamilla project, completed 2009, includes a bridge connecting the Alrov Street across the old (but modernized) Jaffa Road. This has created a plaze outside the gate, which has zero mile of Jerusalem. This plaza is used during some of the many festivals taking place in Jerusalem.

The area inside the gate has become more and more people friendly. Less cars, more space for pedestrians to walk, more room for vendors and street musicians, guides and tourists.

General view with windmill

Anyone who knows even just a little about Jerusalem, knows about the Old City. Most take the new city for granted, nor at least believe that Jerusalem outside the walls was an integral part of the city, always.  And why not? Why should anyone think that it once was different?

What most don’t realize is that until 1860, absolutely no one lived outside the protection of the walls of Jerusalem and it’s closed gates at night; that till then Jerusalem was only within the Walls, what we today call the Old City.

The initiative to live outside didn’t even come from the people of Jerusalem themselves. Though many were modern and progressive, the idea of living outside the walls was terrifying, due to Bedouin raids, pillaging, and general banditry rampant in the country at the time.

But in 1860 the Jewish English philanthropist, Sir Moses Montefiore, visited the country and Jerusalem for the 5th time (out of a total of seven visits). From previous visits he knew the conditions within Jerusalem. With donations from the estate of  Judah Touro of New Orleans, he built a row of buildings on a hill opposite Mt. Zion on the other side of the Sultans Pool, and surrounded it with walls for protection.
It was named Mishkenot Sha’ananim from Isaiah 32:18 – “My people will abide in peaceful habitation (mishkenot sha’ananim), in secure dwellings and in quiet resting places.”

He also built a windmill with two purposes: 1. to create additional places of work, 2. to increase the supply of wheat to Jerusalem. (More about the windmill another time).

At the time the living conditions within the walls were abysmal, for Jews, Muslims and Christians. But in particular for the Jewish population, which had seen an exceptional growth since the beginning of the 19th Century, from 2.250 (out of total of 9000), to 11.000 (out of total 22.000).

In contrast, the 16 apartments of Mishkenot Sha’ananim were luxurious. They even had proper outhouses. And still, people were reluctant and fearful to move there.

The story on how he after all made Jerusalem residents move out there, may be within the legends of Jerusalem. But it deserves a place here.

When Montefiore saw the resistance to move outside the walls, he offered financial incentive to move out there. This was too good a deal to refuse. However, in the early weeks of living there, the new residents would return to the protection of the city walls in the evening, and only spend their days in Mishkenot Sha’ananim. As time went on, they realized it was safe to stay there also at night.

This became the incentive for other Jews of Jerusalem to leave the squarlor of the city, and build more neighborhoods around the city. Eventually Christians and Muslims followed suit.

Following the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, the neighborhood became a no-mans land, due to its proximity to the armistice line dividing Jerusalem. Most of the residents of Mishkenot Sha’ananim and the adjoining neighborhood of Yemin Moshe fled the area.

After the reunification of Jerusalem in 1967 both areas were renovated and modernized. Mishkenot Sha’ananim was turned into an upscale guest house for visiting artists, as well as a convention center and home to the Jerusalem Music Center.

The modern Mishkenot Sha'ananim

Entrance, obviously

When I first came to Israel in 1971, there were not many things happening in Jerusalem.

But one of the events that did take place was the Jerusalem International Book Fair. As avid readers we used to go there, browse among the thousands – no, sorry – tens of thousands of volumes in English, Hebrew, French, Spanish, and many other languages.

Angola and Romania

Two publishers in one corner

The Book Fair is for publishers to present their books, new or older publications, best sellers or less well known. They present books in almost all categories – literature, on art, crafts, professional topics, movies, history – local and worldwide and much much more.

It is also more friendly to the public, with reading areas and chairs for more comfortable browsing.

Every day there are some 25 events going on, such as

Panel Discussion on “The Digital Age – A new definition of publishing

Book presentations with the author

Dialogue between two authors – Israeli and visitor

Poetry Readings

Book Launches

Authors signing books

Special Exhibits

and much more

The Book Fair of course begins with the Opening Ceremony in the presence of Israeli leaders, especially the President of Israel. During the Opening the Jerusalem Prize is awarded. This year to the British writer, Ian McEwan.

Israel Radio Broadcasting

Even if you can’t make it there, you can still get some feel for what’s going on. A special corner was set up as a broadcasting station for Israel Radio. Interviews with writers, publishers and other involved in bringing all of this to us all.

It’s always great to see how many people still come browse for and buy books, especially in this age of electronic information. It is said that there are more readers per capita in Israel and that they read more books than anywhere else.

The Jerusalem International Book Fair takes place this time of the year every 2nd year in the Binyanei Ha”Omah Convention Center.

Opening hours usually is from 10 am to 10 pm on weekdays, and Friday to 1 pm.

If this is of interest, the best way to get further information is to google (as I did) Jerusalem International Book Fair.

Full photo coverage

This is rare footage of Jerusalem in 1918.

It was found with a Jewish family in Amsterdam. It is not clear if the head of the family filmed it himself or assembled it from various pieces.
It was uploaded by Yaacov Gross presumably for Hebrew speaking audience.
I apologize to my English readers that all titles are in Hebrew, but I hope you will enjoy it anyway. I wish I knew how to add English
subtitles.

The film shows Jerusalem inside the walls – Temple Mount, The Western Wall or as it was known then – the Wailing Wall. You will see the Arab market and Damascus Gate, as well as street scenes from just inside Jaffa Gate. There are shots of the Tomb of David on Mt. Zion, of “David’s Well” – better known as the Gihon Spring today; of Rachel’s Tomb and the Tomb of Absalom in the Kidron Valley.
There are also a few shots of Jaffa Road, main street of Jerusalem outside the Walls, then and now.

The film is shows Jerusalem after the collapse of Ottoman (Turkish) rule. But before the British rule has really taken affect.

It seems that the intention of the film was to encourage Jewish tourism to Jerusalem.

I know I as a guide has always claimed how exciting it is to visit Israel, and particularly Jerusalem. I never get tired of showing off this amazing city. And as I do I constantly see things, I’ve never noticed before. And now I have proof.

Jerusalem

One of the most popular travel websites, Trip Advisor, recently set up a list of top 10 culture and sightseeing destinations. No, sorry to say, Jerusalem did not make number uno, but a proud number seven.

The list was compiled following a survey on the site.

This is what they have to say about Jerusalem:

Religious pilgrims have been traveling to Jerusalem for centuries, yet you don’t have to share their zeal in order to appreciate this city’s profound cultural and historical significance. Plan on seeing the major sights, but also leave plenty of time to walk through the streets and simply immerse yourself in the daily life of such an ancient and revered place.

On a personal note, I must tell you that Jerusalem has developed its own very special after hours life. More and more young, secular people are returning to Jerusalem, and creating something new and exciting.

So when you feel you can’t take more culture and history and religion, relax in one of the cities excellent eating places, or go our for a drink somewhere. There are too many for me to recommend here.

Tel Aviv

This follows a no less honorable place for Tel Aviv, as one of the top 10 Beach Cities in the world, by the prestigious magazine National Geographic.

This is what they say about Tel Aviv:

Call it Miami Beach on the Med. Tel Aviv is the Dionysian counterpart to religious Jerusalem. In the “bubble,” as it’s known for its
inhabitants’ tendency to tune out regional skirmishes, some restaurants, discos, and clubs are open until dawn. By day, the scene
shifts to the city’s promenade and eight miles (13 kilometers) of beach literally steps from town. Head to wide and sandy Gordon
Beach to sit in a seaside cafe or take a dip in the saltwater pool.

So if you are looking for a holiday that should include both history, culture and religion, as well as time for relaxing and a night out, all
within a hour of each other, Israel is your place.

Eilat

And just in. BBC Travel in conjunction with Loney Planet has come up with a list of 10 weirdest bars and restaurants. Yes, Israel is again on the list, this time as number two with the Red Sea Star in Eilat.

This is what they have to say about this place:

The Red Sea Star is a bit like Stromberg’s underwater lair in the 1977 James Bond flick The Spy Who Loved Me – which is unsurprising considering that it is 5m below the Red Sea in Israel. The interior of this bar-restaurant feels somewhat reminiscent of a mermaid’s lounge, with fishy fantasy motifs – including jellyfish-shaped stools and starfish-shaped lights – and huge windows through which curious (or possibly vengeful) fish and other marine creatures eyeball the customers eyeballing their seafood platters. If you crane your neck, you might see a ship overhead from time to time. Landlubbers will be relieved to find the rooftop Metro Bar is open 7pm-3am, the underwater bar opens from 10am; details at www.redseastar.com.

Of course, while in Eilat, you may enjoy some water sports and scupa diving, or snorkling. Or take in a desert tour. Or just use the beaches, or its amazing night life.

And if you do this in the winter, you could include a ski trip on the Hermon Mountain, with ski lift and all.

So there you have it. Culture, history, religion – Jerusalem. Beach city – Tel Aviv. Weird eating place – Eilat. I wonder what else we may have for us to be included in top ten.
What about the Dead Sea, for Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

Jerusalem’s newest landmark is the Harp Bridge.
This is a bit of old news, as it was inaugurated in June 2008. But since I talk about it every time I drive through Jerusalem with my tourists, and it is visible from almost everywhere in the city, it deserves a mention here.

As if Jerusalem needs more landmarks, what with the Old City, Mt. Olives, Temple Mount, Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, just to mention a few.

But Jerusalem also wants modern landmarks, and the latest is the Harp Bridge, or as it is often referred to in English – the String Bridge. It is one of those things that will not leave you cold. Either you hate it or you love it. For sure, it can be seen from long way away. On entering or leaving Jerusalem by Route One, you can’t help seeing it.

The Harp Bridge has been built to serve the light rail being installed in Jerusalem to relieve congestion and to get rid of some of the busses that today make up all of public transport in the city. Though construction of the rail is way overdue, the bridge was inaugurated a couple of years ago, and expected to be taken into use within two years. The only ones so far using the bridge are pedestrians, who can now safely cross the extremely busy intersection at the entrance to the city.

However, as a landmark is can also claim to be a world landmark. It is the longest, curved single support suspension bridge in the world. The support, or the Finger, rises to a height of 183 meters. I don’t know how long it is, but it is long. The whole structure was designed by the Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrav, the world’s expert on suspension bridges. It was built to the tune of $73 million, way above what a more conventional bridge would have cost. This alone was the subject of much of the controversy over the bridge. Discussions were also over the whether it fit into the Jerusalem landscape.

It became know as the Harp Bridge or String Bridge due to the massive wires strung from various points of the finger down to the bridge itself.

So now Jerusalem has its new landmark, whether we like it or not, whether we agree to the extraordinary cost (after all its already built). The citizens of Jerusalem have become used to it by now, and may already have forgotten, what they thought about it at first. You will see it, no doubt, when you visit Jerusalem.

Here is a news item on the String Bridge that give you different perspectives from around the time of its inauguration.

The number 18 has special meaning in Jewish traditions. 18 is of course the age when generally a young person becomes mature (some do, some don’t). When written with Hebrew letters it says: hai, which mean life or alive.

It is just coincidence that Jerusalem’s International Annual Half Marathon, the 18th, falls on March 18th this year. Participating in sports events of this kind is definitely being alive, and bringing more life to the city.

As in previous years participants come from all over Israel and all over the world. The route begins and ends in the Givat Ram Stadium of the Hebrew University and goes through some of Jerusalem’s unique and pictoresque landscapes. The route will take runners on a slightly hilly and challenging route and past the Shrine of the Book, housing the Dead Sea Scroll, the Israel Museum, the Knesset, Israel’s Parliament, and the Jerusalem forest.

The Marathon is set with two lengths: half marathon of 21.1 km and the fun run of 10 km. There are 18 different race categories, split by gender and age, from below 16 to 73 and above. 6 prices will be given out.

Participants of the half marathon are invited to participate in a gala dinner of pasta the evening before the race. All runners will receive a t-shirt and a certificate and medal.

Price for participation is $25-$40. Registration can be done online through marathon page in English on the municipality’s site www.jerusalem.muni.il.

If you are lucky you may run side by side with Nir Barkat, the mayor of Jerusalem, and an avid marathon runner himself.