Almonds Give the Sign

When the almonds blossom it is the sign we are all waiting for.

Winter can be cold in some parts of Israel, particularly in the mountains of Judea, Jerusalem, the Galilee and Golan Heights. When we have good winters, the rain comes, and interspersed with sunny days.

It is also the time when the country goes green. Finally the trees have been washed clean of the summer dust, and grasses and wild plants sprout. The fields are also sprouting, and there are sometimes so many different shades of green that I find it hard to name them all.

Many tree, especially the fruit trees, stand bare without leaves. Then comes February with its good tidings. The almond trees are the first trees to burst out in flowers, like pink or white cotton candy scattered over the country side.

This is what we have been waiting for. Now we know we have reached the peak of winter, and spring will soon come, with its new abundance of colors.

 

Christmas in Bethlehem

Christmas is a time of joy, of being together with family and loved ones, of giving and receiving.

Here in the land where Jesus was born, Christmas is not an official holiday, but is very much celebrated by the Christian communities, as well as visitors.

 

Manger Square Bethlehem

Manger Square at Christmas

The main mass takes place in St. Catherine’s Church Bethlehem, and in the Grotto of Nativity in the Church of the Nativity. The celebrations start long before the mass, with the arrival of the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Click here for full details. [Read more...]

A Guide to Ancient Stones

Courtyard of Citadel

There is a question I receive very often as a guide in Israel, in particular in the Old City of Jerusalem. It comes in various forms such as: “Are there any original buildings in the Old City?” “How old are these buildings?”

To talk about original buildings in Old Jerusalem is problematic. What is original? If we are talking about buildings dating to the first Jerusalem, the answer has to be an emphatic no. After all, Jerusalem has been built and destroyed innumerable times.

Dome of the Rock

 

If by original we talk about buildings that were built hundreds of years ago and are still standing, the answer must be yes. Examples of this are The Dome of the Rock and The El Aqsa Mosques on Temple Mount, built in the 7th and early 8th centuries, and still standing more or less as they were built. Another example is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, built in the 12th century by the Crusaders, and incorporating even older building from the 4th century.
So these buildings are original, although not necessarily the first buildings on the site.

But often the questions relate to the ordinary buildings used as housing or other mundane purposes. Again, it’s hard to come with a direct answer.

Housing showing several stages of construction

Many years ago I lived in an old, restored house in the Jewish Quarter. It was an old house that had been renovated and modernized as part of the general renovation of the Jewish Quarter, following the Six-Day War in 1967.
I am not exaggerating when I say some of the walls were more than 5 ft. thick. At the time I did not question how that came about, but today I do understand the process.
A long time ago, a house was built there. With the passing of time, it may have been damaged through acts of war or natural causes. Instead of tearing it down, as is so often done today, new layers of stone were pasted on to the walls, thereby making it structurally sound again, but of course also adding depth to the walls. This probably happened many times, until it today has those amazing thick walls.

A friend of mine also lived in an old building. And one day they decided to scrape away the newer levels. When they reached Crusader columns, they decided they had gone deep enough. And from then on part of the decorations of their living room were these 12th century columns.

Stone in secondary use

Another thing to understand is that most common building material in Jerusalem, indeed in Israel, is stone. In Jerusalem it is referred to as Jerusalem stone. But quarrying stone is expensive and takes time. So it was normal to use stones from destroyed buildings to build the new buildings.
Examples of this can be seen especially in archaeological sites all through the country. But many buildings in the Old City show this feature as well.

City wall next to Dung Gate showing several layers of construction

There are also architectural features that can easily be seen as you walk the alleys of the Old City that show how a building has undergone changes. There are arches in walls, now blocked up. There are walls with stones from obvious different ages.

So the answer to those first questions on being original and age of buildings is that there are original buildings. But there are even more stones that may have been quarried two thousand or more years ago, that are now in secondary use in relatively modern buildings. These stones are the proof of the continuous life in Jerusalem for more than three millennium.

 

How many construction periods do you see? Southern Temple Mount wall

 

Knights in Jerusalem Festival

Nights in November may be cold, especially in Jerusalem and more specifically in the evenings. But that should not hold anyone back from enjoying something unique – The Knights Festival in the Old City of Jerusalem.

Royalty in Jerusalem? Not since the Crusader times. But they are inviting you to experience the medieval festivities taking place in Jerusalem during the month of November.

 

The royal family has put on spectacular festivities every Thursday night during November. They have invited  knights,  singers,  troubadours, magicians, dancers, soothsayers and court jesters and much more to entertain you, and to show you Jerusalem’s magic.

 

Your best access to the festivities is to enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate, and then wander through the Christian Quarter, particularly down to the Muristan Square. But keep your eyes and ears open for the entertainers are everywhere. This is truly a royal affair. All expenses for the entertainment has been paid for. You enjoy it all free of charge.

You may end up spending something, as some of the shop keepers will stay open late, as well as the eateries.

For more information: Jerusalem-Old City, Knights Festival

Mount Beatitudes

Mount Beatitudes

View of Sea of Galilee from inside the church

Mount Beatitudes is located on a low hill on the north-west shore of the Sea of Galilee. It offers a spectacular view over the Sea of Galilee, on clear days all the way to the south end, as well as the surrounding mountains of Galilee and Golan.

We can only call the site traditional, as more than four hundred years passed between the original event and the building of the first church there in the 4th century. Only very few ruins remain of this early church in the vicinity of the modern site.

The Sermon on the Mount [Read more...]

Dates and Tells

All too often I forget that there are terms and expressions that I use all the time as a guide. I take for granted that my audience understands what I am saying, forgetting that they may not be so familiar with them. In fact it may be the first time ever they hear those expressions.

How do I know this? Often, I see it in the eyes. Like a blank expression.

So that you will not have that expression I will here explain some of these terms. If I forget some, remind me, and I will explain them another time.

Dating

Throughout the world it has been common to use the terms BC (Before Christ) and AD (Anno Domini – The year of the Lord) to designate dates.
In Israel, and in most of the academic world, two different terms are being used.
BCE (before common era) and CE (common era). Basically they say the same as the first two, but are to some more
“politically” correct, or maybe I should here say “religiously” correct.

I use these last two, mainly out of habit.

Tell

Tel Hannaton, courtesy biblewalks.com

This term is not related to Israel only, but to the whole Middle East, and maybe also other parts of the world. Tell is an Arabic word which means hill or mound, usually artificial, i.e. not a natural hill, but rather a hill that grew up through the development of history. It is very much an archaeological term.

A tell is a place where people have lived for centuries, often even millenia. The first settlement would be on a small hill for better defense, usually with easy access to water and agricultural land, even adjacent to a road . As time went on this settlement was destroyed, sometimes through natural causes, more often through war. In some instances it may have been abandoned for a shorter or longer period of time.

Whatever the reason, when the place was rebuilt, it was rebuilt on top of the remains of the previous settlement. Luckily for us they did not have bulldozers in those days. They would clear out the place, remove some of the building stones, and use them in the new structures.

A rough sketch of layers of a tell. Names have been inserted for clarification

This would continue again and again over the centuries. Since the new settlement was built on top of the old, it would now be higher. This process would cause the original hill to grow. Some tells can be very deep with up to 20 main layers, others may only have a few. They all usually have the same tell-tale signs of gently sloping sides and a relatively flat top.

For archaeologists a tell is a treasure trove. When opened up properly, the tell will show the strata (layers). Each strata belongs to a specific period, and through the artifacts and remains, even building structures, archaeologists can date each level. And through all these findings tell us how people once lived, what occupied their time, we can learn about their beliefs, and much much more.

Arab Spring and Tel Aviv Protests

Early 2011 saw the beginnings of what has been termed “The Arab Spring” (no comments).

In July 2011 Israel’s hot summer began in Tel Aviv. Not the physical heat, but Israel’s equivalent to the Arab Spring. Equivalent? Only in one way – the desire for change. Everything else was different.

 

[Read more...]

Jaffa Gate – Your gateway to Jerusalem’s Old City

Of the seven open gates to the Old City of Jerusalem, one of the most used gates is the Jaffa Gate.
The Jaffa Gate is unique in several ways. It is the only gate on the south side of the Old City, and it is the only one of the gates that sits at a right to the walls.

The name derives from the old port town of Jaffa (modern Tel Aviv-Jaffa), as does the main street of Jerusalem leading from the Jaffa Gate westward. Due to the many modern renovations in the area, it can be a little difficult today to see the connection between the two. [Read more...]

Mishkenot Sha’ananim – Or How Modern Jerusalem Began

General view with windmill

Anyone who knows even just a little about Jerusalem, knows about the Old City. Most take the new city for granted, nor at least believe that Jerusalem outside the walls was an integral part of the city, always.  And why not? Why should anyone think that it once was different?

What most don’t realize is that until 1860, absolutely no one lived outside the protection of the walls of Jerusalem and it’s closed gates at night; that till then Jerusalem was only within the Walls, what we today call the Old City. [Read more...]

The Roman Theater

roman theatre, roman theater, amphitheater, amphitheatre, Israel, ancient Roman citiesThe Roman theatre is found in all countries that were under Roman influence. It was one of the most important cultural and social gathering places. It was in the theater that Roman citizens could watch plays, pantomimes, choral events, and orations.   It was a place for politicians and officials to explain themselves and hopefully gain favor with the public.

The Roman theatre was built on similar principles as the Greek theatre. However, the Greeks built their theatres on slopes and mountain sides, while the Romans could build them anywhere due to the invention of the arch. [Read more...]