Palace and hippodrome from the south

No tour through Caesarea is complete without a visit Herod’s palace. Although completely in ruins enough remains for us to see the enormous size of the largest of all the palaces built by Herod the Great. The partial reconstruction is an invaluable addition to understand what Herod’s palace must have looked like.

Caesarea was an impressive construction. As was Herod’s way he always chose the most impressive and often most difficult place for his own palace. In Caesarea he outdid himself.

The palace is situated on a promontory into the Mediterranean Sea on the south side of Caesarea, lodged between the theater and the hippodrome. In its final form it consisted of two levels, the lower, western level being earlier that the higher eastern level.

Reconstruction*

Entrance to the palace was from east, through a massive entry way that leads to the large courtyard (42 x 65 m). This courtyard was surrounded on all sides by a roof covered colonnade. The center of the courtyard had most likely been planted with trees, palms and shrubs that may even have created small secluded areas.

The courtyard was surrounded by rooms, the most impressive to be seen on the north side. This room has been named the Audience Hall. If so, this may have been the place where the rulers and governors received visitors and reviewed cases, such as Felix meeting Paul (Acts 24:26).

In the center of the courtyard stands a stone with an inscription. This stone has nothing to do with Herod. The stone is known as the Pontius Pilate stone, as the inscription mentions this important governor by name. It is most likely that Pontius Pilate, like all the other Roman governors, lived in this palace after Judea comes under direct Roman rule in the year 70 BE and made Caesarea the capital of the new Roman province.

On the northwest corner of the upper palace is a staircase leading down to the lower level. Unfortunately most of us can only look at the lower level from the upper level as the staircase is almost completely eroded away by the waves of the Mediterranean.

Pool, Lower Palace

What first strikes the visitor looking on the Lower Level is the large (35x18m) pool. The pool was surrounded by columns and rooms with a tall column in the center. Just below the viewpoint from the Upper Palace is the triclinium (93 m square). It’s difficult to see it and the two rooms adjoining, as they have been covered over to protect the mosaics found there.

Every time I come to this palace I am impressed. The sheer size of it, the scope, the location on the premonotory, the view over the Mediterranean. This is probably one of the most difficult sites for me to explain on paper !

* Student’s reconstruction of palace seen from the north. Courtesy Caesarea Maritima, a project of the University of Pennsylvania Museum

The land in question lies below the Israel Museum, with the Botanical Gardens adjoining, and touching upon the cross-city Begin Highway. It had been leased to the two kibbutzim as agricultural land for many years, but the lease was up. However, the kibbutzim together with a land developer claimed the land.

The problem is that the last small herd of gazelles from the hills of Jerusalem had this land as their home. Being between two hills, the area has become known as Gazelle Valley. These gazelles were cut off some 15 years before the dispute started from their natural habitat and other herds of gazelles in the Judean Mountains, due to roads and homes being built all around.

As if this was not enough the herd of gazelles have been depleted through hunting by wild dogs. It took months of relentless activity by the SPNI to catch the dogs, but by then only three does were left

The District Planning and Building Council of Jerusalem has finally given approval for a plan ensuring the does’ future and enabling the re-population of the herd. Their plan calls for part of the valley to be left in its natural state, to accommodate the gazelles, while the remainder would be a public park.

The SPNI has also committed to bring in fresh blood to maintain the herd of gazelles.

Biblical reference
This is a tremendous boost in animal protection, and especially important to readers of the bible. One of the earliest references to gazelles in this area comes from Song of Solomon 3:5 – I adjure you, O daughters of Jerusalem, by the gazelles or the does of the field …

Thanks goes to: Ha’Aretz Daily Newspaper and the Jerusalem Post

Songs have been written, stories are told, traditions and important events are told again and again. And against this there are other aspects to this venerated old river.

No one today will see it in its whole length, but only snatches and bits and pieces. In some places you may see fast flowing waters where modern water fun can be entertained. In other places a slowly meandering old river venerated for its religious importance.

The Upper Jordan River

The Jordan River runs from its sources Dan, Banias and Hazbani at the foot of the Hermon Mountain via the Sea of Galilee and empties out in the Dead Sea, for a total length of 320 km. The first part from the sources to the Sea of Galilee is also known as the Upper Jordan River. This part is some 80 km in length and has a steep drop from app. 343 m above sea level (near Banias) to 214 m below sea level (Sea of Galilee).

The Banias

Dan and Banias are nature reserves as well as historical site. They both have hikes of varying lengths and difficulty to suit all. Within the Dan reserve is the ancient mound of Tel Dan, where one of the best preserved horned alters can still be seen, as well as the impressive Canaanite and Israelite city gates. It was here that the famous stelae was found carrying the words Beit David, House of David.

Banias , or  Caesarea Phillipi, is known for its Roman and Greek temples to Pan, but more so for being the place of Peter’s Confession (Matt 16:16; Mark 8:29).

On the upper river there are several places where rafting, kayaking or inner tubing can be done. Following good winters with much rain and snow the water rushes in places over boulders, creating decent rapids for the more adventurous spirits. In other places the water always run more placidly, and is therefore suitable for the whole family.

The Sea of Galilee

After some 80 km the Jordan River flows into the Sea of Galilee not far from the ancient town of Beit Saida.  The Kinneret as it is known in Hebrew is app. 21 km long and 13 km across at its widest and goes down to a depth of 43 m. It is the only freshwater lake in Israel, and serves as an attraction to local and foreign tourism, as a holiday area, as well as supplying some 50% of fresh water to Israel.

The Lower Jordan River

The Jordan River runs out of the the Sea of Galilee on the south western edge, and runs for another app. 250 km till it reaches the Dead Sea. This part is known as the Lower Jordan River, and the flow here is much slower as the drop is from -214 to -420 over the longer distance. Almost the full length of the Lower River also serves as border between Israel and the Kingdom of Jordan.

On the lower river, very close to the exit out of the Sea of Galilee, is the place most visited by Christian tourists. At the Yardenit Baptismal Site it is possible for any visitor to truly see and touch the waters of the Jordan River. The place offers facilities for baptizing, and for many pilgrims this becomes one of the highlights of their tour in Israel.

Baptism

This is not the place where Jesus was baptized (Matt 3:13). The traditional site of the baptism of Jesus is some 5 km north of the Dead Sea. This site is not approachable from the Israeli side, only from the Jordanian side.

Best known as the place of the baptism of Jesus, the Jordan River offers the visitor many exciting moments from its headwaters near the Hermon Mountain until its end in the Dead Sea.

One day, someone made the comment that preaching to people isn’t really all that hard. A real challenge would be to preach to a bear. One thing led to another and they decided to do an experiment.
They would all go out into the woods, find a bear, preach to it, and attempt to convert it.

Seven days later, they’re all together to discuss the experience.
Father Flannery, who has his arm in a sling, is on crutches, and has various bandages, goes first. “Well,” he says, “I went into the woods to find me a bear. And when I found him I began to read to him from the Catechism. Well, that bear wanted nothing to do with me and began to slap me around. So I quickly grabbed my holy water, sprinkled him and, Holy Mary Mother of God, he became as gentle as a lamb. The bishop is coming out next week to give him first communion and confirmation.”

Reverend Billy Bob spoke next. He was in a wheelchair, with an arm and both legs in casts, and an IV drip. In his best fire and brimstone oratory he claimed, “Well brothers, you KNOW that we don’t sprinkle!
I went out and I FOUND me a bear. And then I began to read to my bear from God’s HOLY WORD! But that bear wanted nothing to do with me. So I took HOLD of him and we began to wrestle. We wrestled down one hill, UP another and DOWN another until we came to a creek. So I quick DUNKED him and BAPTIZED his hairy soul. And just like you said, he became as gentle as a lamb. We spent the rest of the day praising Jesus.”

They both looked down at the rabbi, who was lying in a hospital bed. He was in a body cast and traction with IV’s and monitors running in and out of him. He was in bad shape. The rabbi looks up and says: “Looking back on it now, circumcision may not have been the best way to start.”

Friday morning a couple of weeks ago the Dizengoff Center in Tel Aviv hosted a food market. From the look of it most shoppers were happy and content, and even more so when they got the surprise of their lives.

Among the shoppers were members of the Israel Philharmonics and its choir.

The noise level at such events is quite high, but the Philharmonics managed to quieten everybody when it struck up the chords and full version of Verdi’s Il Trovatore and Rigoletto.

I was not there, but saw the news broadcast in the evening. And when I saw the clip on YouTube, I knew I had to share it with others.

So let nobody tell you that Israel doesn’t have talent and initiative. Enjoy!

Tel Aviv courtesy treybarrow.com

Just last year, 2009, Tel Aviv celebrated its centennial. But that is the modern city.

Who would think of Tel Aviv as hiding old treasures? Of having people living there thousands of years ago?

During the preparation for construction of a new apartment complex in the Ramat Aviv neighborhood of Tel Aviv, remains of prehistoric buildings were uncovered. The buildings are estimated to be 7.800-8.400 years old. Artifacts estimated to be between 13.000 and 100.000 years old were also found.

They were excavated by Ayelet Dayan on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority (IAA). According to Dayan these find are both “important and surprising” for understanding this period.

“For the first time, we have encountered evidence of a permanent habitation that existed in the Tel Aviv region 8,000 years ago,” she said. “The site is located on the northern bank of the Yarkon River, not far from the confluence with Nahal Ayalon. It is assumed that this fact
influenced the ancient settlers in choosing a place to live. The fertile alluvium soil along the fringes of the streams was considered a preferred location for a settlement in ancient periods.”

The building uncovered had at least three rooms, and is from the neolithic period (New Stone Age), a time when man was beginning to move from a nomadic life style of hunting and gathering to a settled life style, based on agriculture.

Among the artifacts found were flint tools such as sickle blades and flakes, the left-overs from tool production. Other finds are a basalt bowl and animal bones and teeth, including hippopotamus teeth.

Blessed be modern development for bringing another important archaeological site to light.

I have not been able to find pictures of the reported finds to show you.

Entry to Church House of St. Peter

On the south side of Capernaum stands the large modern church of  The House of St. Peter. It hovers over the ruins of the 5th century octagonal church, also known by the same name. This church had been built over the remains of even earlier buildings.

To begin with the earliest from the first century. Remains of the insula can still be seen beneath the later buildings. According to some archaeologists one room or courtyard within this insula received special status in the latter parts of the first century, becoming a place of assembly. The floor was covered with plaster, and the wall reworked, some even say with inscriptions. This is contested by other archeologists. No household ceramics were found in this room, only a very large amount of oil lamps.

This late 1st century structure may have been used as a domus-ecclesia or house church by the early Christians of Capernaum.

Across insula to House of St. Peter

In the 4th century this structure underwent a major transformation. Walls were added as well as archways  to support the roof and new entrances. It is possible that the remainder of the insula continued in its original function, as living quarters.

In the 5th century the whole insula was dismantled as well as the early house of prayer. On top was built a large octagonal church, to become known as the Church of the House of St. Peter. The Byzantines took great care to locate this church directly above the early house. Mosaics covered the floors of plants and animals. The mosaic in the central octagon in addition had schools of fish and in the center a circle with a peacock, an early Christian symbol for immortality.

Although there are only ruins to be seen today, the place may hold special significance for the Christian visitor.

Is this really the House of St. Peter?

There is no doubt about the identification of Capernaum. There is however debate on whether the House of St. Peter really is that.

Jesus chose Capernaum as the place of his ministry. (Mtt. 4: 13) Many of his disciples were from Capernaum. Simon, later known as Peter, lived in Capernaum with his family, worked as a fisherman (Matt. 4:18) and was one of the first to be  chosen by Jesus.

Peter and his house is mentioned a number of times in the gospels. In fact one of the first healings is of Peter’s mother-in-law (Mark 1:30). This means that Peter was married, as was the norm of those days. There is no information on Peter’s family, except that he also had a brother, Andrew, who most likely lived in the same insula as Peter.

Whenever considering if a 5th century church was really built over Peter’s house, a number of things should be taken into consideration.

1. The insula at the time would house extended families
2. Oral tradition

Is it possible that the family of Peter would remember where he lived? Is it possible even that he had descendants, children? Quite likely, as he was married. Would they have followed in his footsteps and followed Jesus, and became the foundation for the Christian community in Capernaum.

There is an additional question to consider. Where did Jesus stay while in Capernaum? He would not have slept outside in the open. If we take the stand that he was not married, he most likely did not have his own household. Is it possible that he would stay with Simon Peter, his best friend?
At least some of the time?

Sculpture of St. Peter

After the death of Jesus, Peter, together with the disciples, returned to the Galilee, to their homes in Capernaum. They would have come back and told all that had happened in Jerusalem. They would have continued to stay there, especially Peter, until he fully began his apostolic work.

Taking all of the above into consideration there is a very high likelihood that the church is truly built over the house of Peter.

I have told you the way I see it. It is up to you now to consider this. But maybe when you visit Capernaum you will actually walk where Jesus and the disciples lived, worked and walked.

We were lucky, just as we started heading back toward the cable car, we had one of the rare experiences – it started to rain. To begin with just dripping, but before we got to the cable car, it was pouring.

The shelter is built to give shade, not against a desert torrential downpour, so we and all the other people waiting to go down got pretty drenched. Still, an experience, so we took it in our stride. We also knew that within long we would be indoors, and heading toward the car.

It kept raining, but I was not worried. After all it had been dry the better part of the day.

Some fifteen minutes north of Ein Gedi I noticed loads of cars parked alongside the road, and people scrambling on the mountain side. This got me a little worried. Was there a flash flood, so we could not get back to Jerusalem? Then I saw it – the flash flood coming over the mountain. A 400 meter high waterfall in the desert.

One of those extremely rare moments. We stopped, just like all the others. My photos do not make justice to the magnificence of these moments.

And then I saw the second waterfall – even bigger than the first. The first one was absorbed by the ground close to the road. This second one was flooding the road.

Then the police came and chased us all away – no stopping on the side of the road.

Actually it can be dangerous. If the water intensifies you can get swept away. Neither I nor my two tourists cared. The view was spectacular.

Unfortunately in the end we had to move on, as did all the other spectators, but we really had an exceptional day on Masada and at the Dead Sea.

There was once a wise Jew, who said that everything boils down to you have in your head.

His name was Moses

After him came a second wise Jew, who said that everything boils down to what you have in your heart.

His name was Jesus

After him came a third wise Jew, who said that everything boils down to what you have in the stomach.

His name was Marx

After him came a fourth wise Jew who said that everything boils down to what you have between the legs.

His name was Freud

And finally came the wisest of them all. His name was Einstein and he said that everything is relative.

As if Jerusalem needs more landmarks, what with the Old City, Mt. Olives, Temple Mount, Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, just to mention a few.

But Jerusalem also wants modern landmarks, and the latest is the Harp Bridge, or as it is often referred to in English – the String Bridge. It is one of those things that will not leave you cold. Either you hate it or you love it. For sure, it can be seen from long way away. On entering or leaving Jerusalem by Route One, you can’t help seeing it.

The Harp Bridge has been built to serve the light rail being installed in Jerusalem to relieve congestion and to get rid of some of the busses that today make up all of public transport in the city. Though construction of the rail is way overdue, the bridge was inaugurated a couple of years ago, and expected to be taken into use within two years. The only ones so far using the bridge are pedestrians, who can now safely cross the extremely busy intersection at the entrance to the city.

However, as a landmark is can also claim to be a world landmark. It is the longest, curved single support suspension bridge in the world. The support, or the Finger, rises to a height of 183 meters. I don’t know how long it is, but it is long. The whole structure was designed by the Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrav, the world’s expert on suspension bridges. It was built to the tune of $73 million, way above what a more conventional bridge would have cost. This alone was the subject of much of the controversy over the bridge. Discussions were also over the whether it fit into the Jerusalem landscape.

It became know as the Harp Bridge or String Bridge due to the massive wires strung from various points of the finger down to the bridge itself.

So now Jerusalem has its new landmark, whether we like it or not, whether we agree to the extraordinary cost (after all its already built). The citizens of Jerusalem have become used to it by now, and may already have forgotten, what they thought about it at first. You will see it, no doubt, when you visit Jerusalem.

Here is a news item on the String Bridge that give you different perspectives from around the time of its inauguration.